The Wine Surprise Blog - Drum Roll Wine

Wine Off the Beaten Path: Sussex, UK

Mon, 30 Sep 2024 04:51:28 GMT

The English have been wine crazy for quite a long time. They ruled the legendary French wine region of Bordeaux for centuries after the marriage of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitane in 1154. When the English lost control of the region as a result of the Hundred Years War (1453), they established a cozy relationship with wine producers in Porto, Portugal (which is why, to this day, so many Port houses carry English names–e.g., Dow’s, Graham’s, and Taylor). Appropriately, one of the world’s largest and, perhaps, most prestigious wine education organizations, The Wine & Spirit Education Trust , was founded in the UK. The cruel irony is that the climate of the British Isles was never hospitable to wine grape growing. Until now.

As the planet warms, the Champagne region of France is undergoing significant changes. The style of wine produced there requires cool, even “marginal” conditions for wine grape growing. Barely ripened grapes are lower in sugar and higher in acid when harvested. These are the grapes that make for great sparkling wine with heaps of zing and restrained alcohol. While northern France is warming up (making it harder to produce such wines), so is southern England (making it actually feasible to produce delicious sparkling wines). Enter quality English sparkling wine!

I’d tasted a few bottles of English sparklers here and there over the last few years but wanted to explore the region of Sussex myself. (Kent is also an emerging sparkling wine region, by the way.) I was telling an English acquaintance about my planned quest and, while an enthusiastic wine drinker himself, he was barely aware that his own homeland was producing sparkling wine worth the trip. While anecdotal as evidence goes, our conversation illustrated that the sparkling wine industry in the UK is still very much in its infancy. Nonetheless, it was exciting to plan my trip into English sparkling wine country and it did not disappoint.

The South Downs is a series of chalky hills due south of London and less than 10 miles north of the coastal city of Brighton. I caught a train from London Victoria to the village of Hassocks (about a 1.5 hour trip) then had a lovely walk to the nearby village of Hurstpierpoint, which served as my base for further exploration. The English love walking (as do I) and the countryside in this area is rich with footpaths and bridleways so I suspected it would be a special few days in the area. At no point did the natural beauty of the region prove anything but remarkable. While my legs tired, I thoroughly enjoyed the challenge of hoofing it between wineries, covering about 18 miles a day. I’m not bragging, mind you, just reporting. And also bragging.

It’s common to see vineyards in the area planted on south facing slopes to maximize sun and heat exposure for the sake of fruit ripening. The soils include the aforementioned chalk (reminiscent of the Champagne region) as well as limestone, sandstone, and clay (similar to parts of Burgundy, France). Given the humid nature of the regional climate, vines are sprayed to fight against mildew and other diseases. (While this is common around the world, it begs the question of whether the winegrowers here will ever be able to produce organic grapes.) Most wines in the region are not aged in oak barrels, but when winemakers turn to oak, they favor French oak because the grain of English oak is too tight to have the desired impact on wine texture and flavor. (This impenetrable quality of English oak helped make England into a superior naval power in an earlier time.) While there are multiple methods of sparkling wine production used around the world, the English have chosen the Champagne method (AKA traditional method) for its elegance and prestige.

My first stop was to Albourne Estate . The property is a former dairy farm with 22 acres of vines planted mostly in 2010. Along with the standard Champagne grapes of chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier, Albourne also grows some pinot blanc, pinot gris, and bacchus (more on this unusual variety later). The winery produces around 3,000 cases per year, which is definitely in the “boutique” category. I tasted a variety of sparkling and still wines including a 2022 chardonnay that featured 100% malolactic conversion (a natural process in which the very tart malic acid in a wine is transformed into a softer and less extreme lactic acid), but still had plenty of lift and a nice green apple and yellow apple skin notes. I also enjoyed a non-vintage sparkling wine with a fresh lemon and tangerine profile.

Nearby Ridgeview has a bit more history but is still quite a young enterprise with vines planted in 1995. Similar to other vineyards in Sussex, the white grapes are all on south facing slopes but reds here are on west facing slopes to capture the late afternoon sun. The signature sparkling wine at Ridgeview is called “Bloomsbury,” and it is made from ⅔ chardonnay and ⅓ pinot noir & pinot meunier grapes. Apparently, the late queen quite enjoyed it. So did I, as it turned out. I also especially appreciated a 2019 Blanc de Blancs (the term for a sparkling wine made from all white grapes) with its searing acidity and very fine bubbles. The production here is substantial at about 40,000 cases per year. About half of this is branded as Ridgeview while the balance is made for and sold under other brand names. Ridgeview maintains a high standard of aging for both non-vintage sparklings (18 months before release) and vintage dated wines (3 to 5 years). At first glance, it also seemed that the vineyards here are pruned for lower yields than some others in the area, resulting in wines with both increased character as well as prices.

On my second day of touring the area, I stopped into one of the older wineries in the area, Bolney Wine Estate . The 18 acre vineyard here was planted in 1972, which is old enough to qualify as “old vines” in many parts of the wine production world. Uniquely, Bolney does produce a touch of red wine. Although after 10 years of trying to make a go with merlot, all vines were removed in favor of chardonnay (smart move). The vineyard manager here employs very high vine training to maximize warmth for young buds and minimize disease pressure during humid months. The non-vintage Classic Cuvée offered pastry and apple strudel aromas and flavors. The 2020 Blanc de Blancs presented light stone fruit and rhubarb notes. Unfortunately, I was not at all convinced by the red wines on offering but time may be on the side of the adventurous but patient wine makers willing to take a risk with red grapes in this changing region.

My final winery visit, to Highweald , was a lovely way to end a trip. This 100 acre vineyard was just planted in 2016 and from the wines I tasted, I’d say there’s plenty of potential. The non-vintage pink sparkler here is a special wine with a creamy, sweet berry fruit plus pasty profile. A bottle made it into my suitcase for the return trip home! The non-vintage Brut Reserve was also quite enjoyable. The weather and hospitable atmosphere were such that I spent quite some time at Highweald and could have stayed much longer had reality not reared its ugly head at closing time.

While I think the future is bright for English sparkling wine, I am not yet a fan of the regional still wines made from bacchus. This grape was created in Germany in 1933 by a viticulturalist who crossed silvaner, riesling, and müller-thurgau. The grape grows well in the challenging English climate and has been adopted by many growers and producers as an analog to sauvignon blanc from New Zealand. Rather than grassy green notes and gooseberry references associated with NZ sauv blanc, the English talk of elderflower and Gran’s greenhouse. I’ve yet to find a bacchus wine I’d like to drink twice, however, as the herbaceous quality of each has been quite overwhelming to my palate. While I understand the natural inclination to form a unique identity with a distinctive grape or wine style, I think the English are barking up the wrong vine with bacchus and would be better served by continuing to build on the early success of their sparkling wines.

If you discover a bottle of English sparkling wine at your local bottle shop, I encourage you to try it. You’ll not likely find a lot of values (recently planted vineyards, like many startups, incur significant debt that can take years or even decades to defray), but it’s worth the price for the opportunity to explore. Even better, if you happen to find yourself flying into or through a London airport, set aside a few days to head south and make the most of your time abroad. English sparkling wine is here to stay and will almost certainly increase in production as well as quality for years to come.

Have you tried a unique wine lately? Be sure to email us and tell us all about it.

Living Wine

Mon, 10 Jun 2024 23:09:58 GMT

The best archeological evidence suggests that wine has been a part of human culture and society for over 8,000 years. The first scientific explanation of the process of fermentation, courtesy of Louis Pasteur (oh, the clever French!), was not published until 1876, however. Depending on the exact date of the first discovery of wine, that means we’ve understood how it’s actually made for 2% (or likely less) of the time it has existed.

Since the late 19th century, there have been all sorts of modern innovations essential to the development of the modern wine we know and love: temperature control (and electricity before that), commercial (i.e., engineered) yeast, vine rootstock selection, advanced vineyard trellising techniques, and more. Acknowledging these relatively recent advancements begs the question, “What did wine use to taste like?” The wine of Noah, Cleopatra, Jesus, and Rumi was most certainly NOT like the wine of today.

A good bit of wine through the ages was probably spoiled by the time it reached consumers. The Romans added salt water, frankincense, and all manner of spices to improve it. Contemporary wine enthusiasts would require a major adjustment of expectations were we somehow transported back in time for a visit to a wine bar in Pompei. Still, wine was sought after by rich and poor alike and was essentially seen as a necessity of life through many historical periods.

With a considerable curiosity for the history of wine, we make what we call Living Wine. Our intention is to illustrate, however approximately, something of what wine might have tasted like through most of its existence. We crush and destem organic grapes into a stainless steel tank (no spoilage for us, thank you very much) and rely on native yeast already on the grapes in the vineyard to handle the fermentation. This process moves incredibly slowly, especially because we turn off the heat in our tasting room whenever not present throughout the fall and winter. In these conditions, native yeasts are not sufficiently robust to activate due to the cold ambient temperatures.

For the 2023 vintage of Living Wine, we used chardonnay grapes for a number of reasons. The most practical is that we had a good source for quality organic grapes. As we’ve said many times, farming is proper hard work and we don’t happen to live particularly close to where it happens anyway, so we purchase fruit from excellent growers. As a low pH/high acid variety, chardonnay also has some useful self-protective qualities that decrease the odds of spoilage in this context. Finally, there are many strong opinions about chardonnay these days but most are related to winemaking, not the actual grape variety. So we decided to demonstrate what chardonnay tastes like with as little intervention as possible. We also incorporate the grapes' skins into the production process, yielding a white wine with much more color than usual.

The result is untamed and unusual. It’s been compared to kombucha, cider, and obscure styles of beer. Since we never bottle it, we also do not use any standard food preservatives like sulfur dioxide. This allows the wine to retain a certain wildness that is extremely uncommon in bottled wine. It’s unfiltered and a little fizzy through most of the year. Living Wine changes slowly but perceptibly from week to week and month to month. At the beginning of the season, it’s extremely sweet; it requires months to ferment to dry. The wine lasts until consumed then we start over the next harvest. The only place to experience Living Wine is in our tasting room.

Have you tried a unique wine lately? Be sure to email us and tell us all about it.

Wine Off the Beaten Path: California's Edna Valley

Sun, 19 Mar 2023 00:10:00 GMT

If you’re looking for a wine tasting getaway on the west coast of the US but don’t feel like wading into big name regions like Napa or Sonoma, consider the quaint, central coast region of the Edna Valley. Unlike the nearby (and much larger) Paso Robles AVA, the humble Edna Valley AVA emphasizes cool climate grapes almost exclusively. This makes it an interesting destination for any fans of pinot noir, chardonnay, or riesling. A number of wineries also bring in fruit from surrounding, warmer sites to make syrah and other Rhone varieties and blends.

With a population of around 200, the actual town of Edna doesn’t offer much in the way of amenities for travelers. Nearby San Luis Obispo, on the other hand, will meet your every need for lodging, dining, and the usual comforts sought when away from home. In addition to the main downtown area, there’s also a smaller collection of quality restaurants near the train station. You can take in all the coffee, baked goods, lunch, dinner, and entertainment you want before, during, or after forays into local wineries.

In fact, before heading out to the valley, you can actually begin your wine adventure in town. We highly recommend Dunites , which has a tasting room in downtown SLO. In addition to the historical significance of the name (accompanied by a fascinating tale of a mid-20th century community living off the grid in the area), the fresh, expressive wines made it a deliciously educational first stop for us. The pinot noir was tasty and the unusual white blend, Moy Mell , came home with us. With 50% white pinot noir (not pinot blanc, but a white wine made from a red grape), 35% chardonnay, and 15% albariño, this wine has all sorts of life and flavor. Everything we tasted was engaging and refreshing. As food friendly as they are (and they are), these wines are not going to fade into the background at a dinner party.

Just around the corner, the Ragtag Wine Co. offers a number of varieties and styles (sourcing fruit from both Edna Valley and Paso Robles). We were especially taken with the Edna Valley albariño. It’s a lively wine with great acid as well as stone fruit and tropical notes. We made space in our small checked bag for a bottle.

The drive to Edna Valley wineries from downtown SLO is only about 20 minutes. We appreciated the hospitality at Claiborne & Churchill , where the small estate vineyard grows riesling and pinot noir. The winery is celebrating 40 years of business, which makes it one of the original producers in the area. The 2021 Cuvée Frederika is a fun blend of chardonnay, gewürztraminer, and riesling. The 2021 Edna Valley syrah shows a little reductive quality a la the northern Rhone but also plenty of new world fruit. It’s an interesting wine, for sure.

An easy walk down the road, Windermere boasts the oldest vineyard in the valley (planted in 1974). With very limited production, the winery doesn’t offer tastings but there is a club and bottles to buy at the Sextant tasting room and deli housed in the historic Edna General Store building. This is a relaxing spot for a bite to eat and a glass of vino. Us being us, we purchased a bottle of the 2019 Windemere Estate Pinot Noir to bring home in our suitcase. It’s a bright wine with lovely fruit and an obvious oak influence.

With Paso Robles just 45 minutes to an hour one direction and Santa Rita Hiils, Santa Ynez, and Los Olivos only an hour to 90 minutes the other direction, it would be easy to extend a wine trip to the area for as long as you can get time off from work. To keep it simple and focussed, however, you cannot go wrong with a trip to the Edna Valley. San Luis Obispo plus local wineries will easily fill a few relaxing days with interesting wine, delicious food, and a generous dose of natural beauty as well.

Have you visited a lesser-known wine region lately? Be sure to email us and tell us all about it.

Wine Off the Beaten Path: Denmark

Mon, 14 Nov 2022 20:18:00 GMT

A couple of years ago, I was driving through Nebraska for the first time. I noticed a highway sign for a local winery and decided to stop in. Wine not? The grape vines that can survive such frigid winters and humid summers do not produce the kinds of grapes to make what most would recognize as traditional wine (you know, cab sauv, pinot noir, chardonnay, etc…). Instead, the hardy vines in places like middle America produce grapes with wildly different characteristics and wines that generally do not compare as favorably to those from better-known wine regions. While the gracious among us might describe these unusual wines as “different,” most wine enthusiasts would simply pass.

Anyway, I found my mind shifting between two competing perspectives while tasting these exotic Nebraskan wines. On the one hand, I admired the tremendous amount of work and dedication required to make these wines–especially given the unique challenges of the local geography, climate, and culture. On the other hand, I sincerely wondered why a winemaker or wine lover in Nebraska wouldn’t rather just visit a local grocery for a $20 beauty from Bordeaux, Chianti, or the Napa Valley? Not to mention readily available, high-value selections from Washington and Oregon, of course!

A visit to the Røsnæs peninsula in Denmark brought back these questions. What kind of iconoclast invests a life’s work growing wine grapes and making wine in such inhospitable conditions? More importantly, how could these wines even be considered drinkable compared to the glut of excellent European wines from so many nearby wine countries with thousands of years of wine traditions? More than these questions, however, what actually brought me was the desire to understand how current and anticipated changes to global climate might impact how and where viticulture flourishes in the future. Having recently learned about next-generation hybrid grapes developed for growing quality wine grapes in challenging (but changing) climates, I wanted to see (and taste) the current state of affairs for myself.

As a little background, scientists have been developing grapes that are a cross of cold-hardy species (such as Vitis riparia , native to North America) with common European wine grapes ( Vitis vinifera ) for quite some time to enable wine grape growing in a broader, more diverse collection of locations and climates. As time and understanding have moved forward, laboratory knowledge and techniques have advanced as well. The most recently developed hybrid grapes are sometimes called “PIWIs” as a manageable alternative to the German “Pilzwiderstandsfähige Rebsorten” (which translates to something like “fungus-resistant grape varieties”). The PIWI star of the show in Denmark is the white solaris grape. It is considered a Vitis viifera species even though it has a lineage which includes a very small percentage of other species.

A little over an hour by car from Copenhagen was the destination for my quest. The best known wine region in Denmark, the Røsnæs peninsula, is surrounded by water (naturally) and the vineyards I visited overlook the sea. It seems unlikely that such a vast body of turbulent, cold water would be effective in reflecting sunlight to the vines for a warming effect, but by planting on the southern and southwestern side of the peninsula, sun exposure is maximized. Also, since the peninsula is only about nine miles long and less than two miles wide, it would probably require some real effort NOT to plant near the sea.

The first wine grapes were planted here in 1998 at Røsnæs Vingård . These rondo grapes (a red variety that produces a wine perhaps reminiscent of dornfelder) are still a part of the annual production of less than 200 cases a year. The main focus is on the solaris grape, however, which is used to make both sparkling and still wine. Even though these solaris vines were just planted in 2018, and such young vines are not always considered appropriate for making wine, I enjoyed the 2021 vintage. There was a distinct flinty note that reminded me of some Mosel and other rieslings along with tropical fruits and a touch of citrus. I also appreciated the low-ish 12% ABV in this dry wine because I was able to drink more of it.

Just down the road, the STUB Vingaard makes the absolute most of its delightful setting. With a view of the sea and a unique “wine tower” (a reimagined 100 year-old water tower) for a tasting room, STUB adds to the visitor experience with elegant and nuanced wines from solaris. The 2021 Yellow Yearling solaris was lively with lime and other citrus notes plus a touch of phenolic complexity on the finish. Another solaris, the 2021 Mellow Mare (are you picking up on the equine theme?) was fermented on grape skins for a few days and spent time in French oak as well. There’s also a botrytized (sweet) wine available when seasonal conditions cooperate.

Denmark’s largest winery, Dyrehøl Vingaard , is also in the neighborhood. The oldest vines on the estate were planted in 2008 so like the rest of the vineyards nearby, these vines are quite young. With the largest production facility in the region (plus a skilled enologist hired from abroad), Dyrehøl makes wine for nearly every vineyard in the area. This kind of arrangement is common in other small winery regions in Europe and beyond. Though the estate is 80% solaris, a staggering number of different wines were available for tasting. The reds generally struck me as a bit under ripe with some green vegetal notes, but the solaris wines were lovely. The 2020 “Jættehøjmark” was focused and steely with a touch of white grapefruit and a refreshing 11.5% alcohol. As with the other solaris wines tasted, Loire Valley muscadet, young Hunter Valley semillon, and Japan’s koshu came to mind as similar in style.

It is very early days for winemaking in Denmark and there’s no reason to expect the nascent wine industry there to rock the wine world with a sudden explosion of quality and quantity. However, it’s entirely possible that climate conditions, specialized viticulture, and abundant local passion and effort will conspire to expand the potential of wine in this highly unlikely corner of the world. I appreciate the visionary commitment to developing something of stature and meaning that’s evident there. And why shouldn’t Denmark be able to claim its own tradition of producing the world’s most noble libation? It’s already happening!

Have you visited an unlikely wine region lately? Be sure to email us and tell us all about it.

Wine Off the Beaten Path: Germany's Ahr Valley

Mon, 13 Jun 2022 03:59:00 GMT

Even if you’re unfamiliar with Germany’s Ahr Valley, you may recall news of the flooding that devastated the region in July of 2021. Before the flood, the Ahrtal (“tal” being German for “valley”) was best known as the only predominantly red wine region in the country (red grapes make up 82% of vineyard plantings). Delightful wines of Spätburgunder (the German name for pinot noir, which translates literally as “late Burgundy,” referencing the late ripening member of the pinot family) have defined the region for many decades. The flood, on the other hand, is an inescapable part of a much more recent identity.

The impact of the “flutkatastrophe” (i.e., “flood catastrophe”) was felt by everyone in the Ahrtal and the damage to the wine industry was both extensive and shocking. Since most vineyards are on steep slopes, vines and viticultural infrastructure escaped relatively unscathed (with the exception of some small vineyards on the valley floor). Most wineries, however, did not fare so well. Many tasting rooms and cellars were completely destroyed. Some wineries lost 100% of wine on hand. Visiting ten months after the fact, the clean up phase seemed to be in its final stages but there is much rebuilding ahead. Given the degree of destruction, it may be years before the wineries and villages along the river return to their previous states.

In spite of the recent disaster, there are still many great reasons to visit. The beauty of the vineyards and forests is beyond compare. When attempting to describe the scenery, “magical” comes to mind (as does “transcendent,” “otherworldly,” and “divine”). The history of the region is intriguing as well. Romans occupied the area 2,000 years ago and wine grapes have been grown and vinified here for over a thousand years. Also, the wine happens to be delicious. While the Ahrtal doesn’t enjoy the history or reputation of Burgundy, lovers of pinot noir will not be disappointed with the offerings.

Access to the best views in the valley is widely available via the “Rotweinwanderweg,” (i.e., “red wine hiking trail”), which is twenty-two miles long and easily accessible from the roadway connecting the small villages along the valley floor. The walking trail passes through vineyard after vineyard, is clearly marked, and is mostly paved or graveled (with the exception of short sections through forest passages). Like the Ahr river, the path winds this way and that, providing multiple vistas in a variety of directions. Staying in the village Rech, it was easy and gratifying to walk west to Mayschoss or east to Dernau and Marienthal. Since several bridges were destroyed by the flood, train service no longer extends as far into the valley as it once did so bus service is useful for visiting villages farther afield such as Walporzheim and Ahrweiler.

Ubiquitous vineyard terraces, ruins such as those at Kloster Marienthal, and medieval architecture (especially in the old town of Ahrweiler) put a visitor in touch with the past. The Roemervilla is the excavation site of a large Roman villa that was first unearthed in 1980. Of course, there is also quite a bit of wine history around. Most wineries are family owned and more than a few can trace their winemaking histories back hundreds of years. Winemaking is first and foremost a passion, a lifestyle, and a matter of heritage for these producers.

Overall, the many spätburgunders tasted revealed aromas ranging from subtle and earthy to full-on funky with vibrant fruit flavors and pronounced acidity. In fact, tasting young wines (2-3 years since harvest) almost exclusively illustrated why these bottles need 5-10 years before being ready for maximized enjoyment. For those without the luxury of buying and storing these wines for an extended period, allow me to direct your attention to another regional specialty, frühburgunder.

Taking its name (i.e., “early Burgundy”) from its notable characteristic of ripening 2-3 weeks before pinot noir, this natural mutation of the pinot family is a worthy grape for comparison to spätburgunder. Many of the flavors and other characteristics are quite similar to pinot noir, but with lower natural acidity. This makes young frühburgunders ready to enjoy presently. Examples from Jean Stodden , Kloster Marienthal , J.J. Adeneuer , and Wilde Ahr were all delicious. It seems to be a commonly held view in the region that frühburgunder is not as structured as spätburgunder, but for a fresh, young wine, it is quite charming and fun without being dull or simple.

Behind every beautiful wine is a special plot of land, of course. The esteemed VDP (an invitation-only consortium of 200 German wine producers) recognizes several vineyards in the Ahrtal as “grand sites of origin.” While only seven producers in the region are members of the VDP, a full 40% of vineyard land here is designated as the highest quality (referred to as “Grosse Lage”). These seventeen vineyard sites face south, southeast, and/or southwest, allowing for the longest exposure to the sun in this marginal climate (it’s quite far north). Terraced vineyards feature slopes of up to a 60% gradient, which also helps to maximize sun exposure. Soil types vary widely–windblown loess, grey slate, basalt, and sandstone–with each producing a different effect on wine aroma, flavor, and body.

Surprisingly, there is also quite a bit of white wine made from pinot noir (“blanc de noir” as in “white (wine) from dark (grapes)”). These wines have lively aromas of pineapple and green apple and are reminiscent of albariño but with more body and a rounder mouthfeel. With so much pinot noir growing in the region, it makes sense that various uses of the variety would emerge. Another unexpected discovery was halbtrocken (i.e., half-dry) spätburgunder. It’s common for wine regions to hang on to vestiges of history and perhaps this is one such example. A semi-sweet pinot noir makes a rather unusual presentation to a modern palate, however, and it’s hard to understand exactly when would be the right occasion for this expression of pinot noir. Surely, the audience is limited.

Many of the best wineries follow barrel aging traditions of Burgundy, including importing oak barrels only from select copperages in the spiritual home of pinot noir. While new oak is generally employed sparingly in the maturation process here, the highly-regarded Meyer-Näkel “Spätburgunder S” relies on substantial use of new French oak barrels to shape the final product. Such wines require several years of aging to integrate the influence of all that oak flavor.

In the midst of such remarkable scenery and agreeable wine, local hospitality shines through in the Ahrtal. English is not spoken universally, but it’s still fairly easy to get by without much in the way of German language skills. Socially speaking, Germans might strike some as matter-of-fact to the point of indifference, but most of the time a friendly demeanor is hiding just behind any apparently detached initial reception. Unlike some other wine regions, you are unlikely to encounter a sense of condescension or superiority here. The following email response to a request to schedule a wine tasting in English at Kloster Marienthal illustrates the point:

Our vinotheque and also our restaurant with the historical monastery garden are open every day. Always from 11.00 to 18.30. It is not sure that someone can present you our own wines in perfect English. But who is perfect?

Who, indeed?

If you’re looking for unique wines in a gorgeous setting, you should certainly consider the Ahrtal. Spätburgunder, f rühburgunder, white wines from pinot noir, riesling, and silvaner are all ready for the enjoying. The food is grand and the people are kind and welcoming. Just be ready for the journey: It’ll take about four hours to navigate the trains and buses from the Frankfurt airport. If you’re coming from Bönn or Köln, you’ll be half that time in transit. Driving through the area? Even easier. Just don’t forget to bring your sense of curiosity.

Do you have a lesser known wine region on your list of favorites? Be sure to email us and tell us all about it.

Wine Tips: How Much Should You Pay for Wine?

Sat, 20 Mar 2021 22:17:00 GMT

July 2023 Update: It doesn't seem like we're going back to the prices previously cited in the article below. So all cost ranges have been updated based on current, post-pandemic realities.

I’m not going to bury the lead here. You can read on past this opening paragraph if you’d like, but here’s the gist. We believe that the best values in white wine are typically found in the $15 to $18 range. For reds, we think $18 to $24 is the sweet spot. Sparkling wine pricing is more complicated because there are multiple styles and some production methods are far more labor intensive than others. So without getting too particular, we’ll say $20 to $40 is the strategic buying gamut. Are there exceptions to these guidelines? Certainly. We’ve come across bottles of white for $12 that were charming and plenty enjoyable. Ditto for red wines under $16 or so. But those finds are rare and usually on sale. On the other hand, there are absolutely sublime bottles of wine out there for $60 or much (much) more, of course.

You may be wondering why red wines tend to cost more than whites. While there are notable exceptions, the production of white wines isn’t generally as financially intensive as it is for reds. The math starts in the vineyard. White wine grapes can be reliably cropped at higher volumes which means harvesting more grapes (and juice) per acre of land. (Red grape vines are often pruned so they produce less fruit to display more character.) While white grapes must be picked with care to preserve the delicate character of the wines, the process in the winery is shorter and simpler than it is for red wines, thus cutting down on labor and other costs. Finally, white wines are seldom aged in new oak barrels (which would overwhelm the nuances of most white varieties). This presents a significant savings over much red wine production.

A wine buyer at a large independent retail shop once told me that any wine over $40 includes an upcharge for something other than the grapes and winemaking. I can’t verify that precisely, but it sounds about right. Getting great grapes into a bottle of exceptional wine only costs so much. Building a fancy winery, marketing a luxury brand, and using bottles twice as hefty as necessary are just some of the extras that add up quickly. The history of a winery or region will also increase the price of a bottle (fortunately, there are plenty of great wines from lesser-known areas around the world–I don’t think I’ve ever paid more than $12 for a wine from Gascony in France and they’ve almost all been delicious, for example). In the end, a wine will cost whatever someone is willing to pay for it. And only you can decide what that threshold is for you.

Keep in mind that all these reference prices refer to what you’d pay at your local grocery store, wine retailer, or winery tasting room. When you go to a restaurant, you’re contributing to a complex organization typically operating on a thin profit margin. So bottles will run you 2 to 4 times as much there. (The price of a glass pour is probably about what the restaurant paid for the bottle.) While purchasing directly from a winery means more of the purchase is going straight to the process of winemaking and the future of that business, you may need to check your emotions as you make buying decisions in the tasting room. Especially if you’ve been sampling quite a bit of wine and your tasting partner is elevating your oxytocin levels.

This is great time for wine drinkers. Easy access to wine from all over the globe is a privilege and modern winemaking practices turn out very little truly bad wine. If you stick to the buying suggestions above, we think you’ll be rarely disappointed.

Do you have your own cost guidelines for wine? Be sure to email us and tell us all about it.

Wine Tips: Straight From a Winery Owner

Mon, 22 Feb 2021 14:38:00 GMT

Wine is not trying to intimidate you. While it is complex as beverages go, wine is also friendly and easy to enjoy on nearly any level. A discovery (not an invention), wine was always inevitable–with sugar on their insides and naturally occurring yeasts on their skins, it’s almost as if grapes were sent on a sure-fire mission to make something big happen. Mission accomplished!

Starting around 8,000 years ago, our neolithic ancestors began to enjoy (or, at the very least, appreciate) wine. In other words, cave dwellers embraced the wonders of wine. With no upper crust of society in charge of wine for the vast majority of its existence, the idea of wine as the domain of the privileged (and snooty) doesn’t add up. Wine is a drink for the people.

Having said that, our appreciation for wine increases as we learn more about its many facets. Here are my top tips for getting the most out of every drop.

Temperature –Societally, we tend to drink white wine too cold and red wine too warm in America (and other "new world" wine regions as well. When a wine is too cold, it shuts down, revealing little in the way of aromas or flavors. On the other hand, a wine consumed too warm loses nuance. Weighed down by alcohol, it will come across as flabby in the mouth. Most white wines are best consumed between 45° and 55° F; think 55° to 65° for most reds. You can explore more about wine and temperature here .

Saving wine –Cold is nature’s best preservative and a $20 vacuum pump is a wine lover’s best accessory for keeping an open bottle fresh. A little oxygen is nice for a wine right out of the bottle, but too much is, well, too much. A vacuum pump draws oxygen out of a partial bottle and will help preserve the remaining wine for 3 to 5 days. Otherwise, an open bottle will lose its charm overnight. Whether white or red, keep opened bottles in your fridge and remove at an appropriate time before you plan to enjoy.

Storing wine –Here’s another consideration related to temperature. Unopened bottles should be stored in the range of 45° to 65° F (55° is ideal). If you’re not sure at what point you should invest in a dedicated wine refrigerator, consider your current wine storage situation. If you can’t maintain the wine at 65° or cooler in all 4 seasons, then maybe the time is now. At 70°, your wine will start to deteriorate.

Aging wine –How long should you (or can you) hold on to your wine? Most wines made these days are not intended to age significantly. For white wines you pick up at your local grocery store, maybe a year or 2 (though they should be ready to enjoy now). For red wines you purchase casually, it’s probably something like 1 to 3 years. Or just till tonight is fine, too. In general, the more expensive the wine, the longer the aging potential. Unless you want to collect wine, however, I don’t see th e point other than saving a special bottle now and then for a particular occasion.

Pairing Food and Wine –You don't have to become an overnight expert, but it's definitely worth a little effort to learn some basics. We can get you started here .

A little practical knowledge goes a long way with wine and it’s perfectly fine to learn bit by bit. As we say around here, you don’t have to be an art historian to enjoy a masterpiece, you need not earn a music degree to dance, and you certainly don’t need to be a sommelier to appreciate a delicious glass of wine. So get to it already!

What’s your favorite wine tip? Be sure to email us and tell us all about it.

Vineyard Visit: McNary (Horse Heaven Hills AVA)

Sat, 08 Aug 2020 22:04:00 GMT

The McNary vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA is in an impressive location to be sure. High above the Columbia River (and the McNary Dam, which provides hydroelectric power to the cities of Kennewick, Pasco, and Richland), a steep and dusty road with switchbacks and sharp edges leads to a captivating vineyard and vista. Fascinating geological formations along the way serve as reminders of previous volcanic activity. When the verdant vineyards finally emerge against the backdrop of so many shades of earth, it’s a visual thrill (be sure to see the video below).

Driving up to the vineyard.

For the sake of context, it’s important to understand a significant historical difference between the wine growing regions of Washington and California; i.e., their relative proximity to the closest major market (and port), Seattle and San Francisco. Much of the Bay Area is within an hour or so drive of Napa and Sonoma counties. If you want to visit vineyards from Seattle, plan on doubling or tripling your travel time (or even booking a flight to the farthest reaches of eastern Washington). While a good bit of WA wine is made in the Seattle metro area, it’s no place for viticulture. This all takes place on the other side of the Cascade range.

This geographical reality created a distinction between grape growers and winemakers in WA early on. While there are plenty of estate wines made in WA (meaning the winery owns and controls the vineyard), it is also quite common for wineries (on the west side of the mountains) to purchase grapes from farmers (on the east side). Some growers and their vineyards have become so well known, in fact, that they can choose to sell only to the wineries they feel will represent their vineyards best.

We’re a part of the large group of wineries in WA that does not own or operate our own vineyards. There are several reasons we chose this path but the basic reality is that we simply lack the fortitude. Farming is proper work! We have nothing but respect for the farming community but are realistic enough to know that we’re not cut out for joining the club. We do, however, appreciate every opportunity to visit the vineyards that provide grapes for our wines to learn as much as we can about the characteristics of the different sites. Plus, vineyards are inspiring. Unless you’re sweating yourself to death planting, pruning, or picking, that is.

At any rate, the 600-plus acres of the McNary vineyard (largely cabernet sauvignon but with several blocks of merlot, syrah, sauvignon blanc, and chardonnay) are a work in progress (as all vineyards are, really). Planted between 2012 and 2017, the story here is still about potential. We’ve sourced both syrah and sauvignon blanc from McNary and are quite pleased with the results. The maturing of these vines, however, will undoubtedly improve the fruit quality over time. This massive investment in plantings is sure to pay off for many decades to come.

Rows and rows and rows.

While the Horse Heaven Hills AVA is known for its sunny warmth, this particular vineyard site also benefits from the adjacent Columbia River which contributes heat-moderating breezes in the summer (as well as cold-moderating breezes in the winter). This is especially important during evening and nighttime hours throughout the growing season. A daily opportunity to cool down helps the grapes retain a balanced acidity to accompany the sugar that develops in the fruit during the warmer, sunnier hours. The skilled viticulturalists on staff also prune the leaf canopy of vines to allow for abundant morning sun (on the east side of vines which are all planted north to south) while the intense late afternoon sun is tempered by plentiful leaf coverage on the other side of the vines. This strategy allows for consistent ripening of the grapes without the risk of off flavors that develop in wines made from sunburned grapes.

A final critical feature of the McNary vineyard is the well-draining soil. With a bedrock of basalt resulting from volcanic activity, the well-draining sandy topsoil helps keep the vines appropriately thirsty and healthy. Sandy soils are known to help protect against the pernicious and destructive aphid phylloxera and produce wines with friendly fruit notes. Over many years, the roots of these vines will dig into the subsoil seeking out moisture and developing complex flavor potential along the way. Like humans, vines develop character through hard work and a bit of suffering.

“Great wine begins in the vineyard” is an oft-repeated truism. Great vineyards are the result of strategic site selection, the wonders of nature, and a tremendous amount of hard work. We’re deeply grateful for the generations of farmers who have honed viticulture to the art and science it is today. The next time you raise a glass of WA wine, we hope you’ll remember the many hardworking folks in eastern WA who made it possible for all of us. And we hope you’ll soon enjoy one of our wines from the fabulous McNary vineyard.

Do you have a favorite Washington State vineyard? Be sure to email us and tell us all about it.

Variety Spotlight: Zinfandel (Confessions of a Skeptic)

Sat, 22 Feb 2020 23:38:00 GMT

Every wine enthusiast goes through stages. Though I could not have expressed it clearly at the time, there was a period when zinfandel was a perfect wine for me. Not the sweet pink stuff, mind you (though I would have happily enjoyed that some years ago as well), but the bold, brash, pruney red. Back then I liked red wine with enormous fruit flavors, intense body, and possibly even a bit of aggression. Subtlety in the glass was lost on me.

Then I encountered various wines from around the world and learned more about how to integrate wine into meals (the standard context for wine through most of its history). I realized that big wines have a tendency to get in the way of a culinary experience and so lean, linear wines with generally less heft became more attractive, while zinfandel fell off my radar. In short, the typical primary fruit taste profile of zin seemed too obvious—as if the winemaker wanted to be sure that we all remember it’s made from grapes!

Writing off an entire variety with a long tradition from a proud and accomplished wine producing country like Italy eventually felt wrong. So I occasionally conceded that there are lovely expressions of zinfandel available (e.g., Ridge Vineyards ), even if not readily, and I went on my happy way basically still avoiding the variety. When I had a chance to visit the Sierra Foothills AVA outside of Sacramento recently, I thought it would be a good opportunity to retest my biases in California’s most famous zinfandel region. Some zin vines there date back 100 years or more and wine-making traditions go back even farther.

East of Sacramento and west of the Sierra Nevada mountains, the gold rush of the mid-19th century brought immigration, trade and agricultural infrastructure, and everything else that gold miners might need or want. The foothills provided land suitable for agriculture and since there were many arrivals with Italian heritage, it’s not a surprise that zinfandel (prominent in the southern Italian region of Puglia) was widely planted. Along with grapes from other warm wine regions in France (syrah from the southern Rhône) and Spain (tempranillo).

Prohibition took its toll on these vineyards and wineries, of course, followed by 20th century development in the shadow of the more famous areas of Napa and Sonoma. Then the sweet white zinfandel craze of the 1980s provided a great business opportunity but damaged the reputation of the local grape over the longterm. More recently, local wineries have grown in their stature, both for making Zinfandel as well as several other varieties. So I made visits to three of them— Terra d’Oro , Amador Cellars , and Turley .

My first stop was a tour and extensive tasting with Terra d’Oro assistant winemaker, Cooper Carter. We tasted 10 different wines together (tremendous hospitality!), including several vineyard-specific zinfandels. These all illustrated earnest and considered work from the vineyards and winery. The small batch offerings of aglianico, teraldego, and a tempranillo/graciano blend (“Amador”) really caught my attention, however. I thought the aglianico expressed the carefree but passionate spirit of Italian wines, in particular, and revived sense experiences from visits to Italy. It’s a magnificently fetching and generous wine!

There’s more than just red wines at Terra d’Oro, however, and the “Clarksburg” Chenin Blanc/Viognier blend was a delight. Unlike some of the other delicious options here, this one is made in large quantities so is easier to find in the broader market.

Both Amador Cellars and Turley are just down the road from Terra d’Oro so were convenient (and reputable) next stops. Amador features a cozy tasting room nestled within the production facility plus lovely surrounding vineyards. barbera, yet another Italian variety, grabbed my attention this time. Originally from the cooler Piemonte region of northern Italy, the barbera wines in this warm region are riper than their “old world” counterparts. Barbera has also become a sort of regional specialty. There’s even a local Barbera Festival , now in its 10th year.

Turley is the steward of vineyards in Amador, Napa, Sonoma, Paso Robles, Lodi, Mendocino, and Contra Costa and manages every vineyard contributing to its 50 different wines even if not owned by Turley. Originally founded in Napa, Turley expanded to Amador due to the owner’s passion for zinfandel. Unlike many vineyards in the area, Turley’s are do-or-die dried farmed. There is no drip irrigation infrastructure installed so if the vines shut down due to excessive heat, the harvest yield will be reduced (possibly dramatically). The philosophy here is that vines should always be searching for moisture through the downward extension of their root systems as a means to developing character in the fruit.

Some of the vines at Turley go back as far as 1859, which is unique in any part of the world. I especially enjoyed the “Judge Bell” zinfandel as a powerful but balanced and complex expression of zinfandel. The flavors are big, but not jammy or overly concentrated given the strong acid and tannin profile. It’s still a bit extreme for my tastes but I brought home a bottle and will look forwarding to revisiting a few years down the road.

Like other lesser-known wine regions, visiting Amador County is a treat due to the excellent hospitality and lack of pretension. Whether you’re a wholehearted fan of zinfandel, or a little skeptical like me, you’ll find a variety of delicious wines and an opportunity to explore beyond the sometimes typical cab, merlot, chardonnay, and pinot noir options from other California wine regions.

Though we’re most passionate about Pacific NorthWest wines, we do love discovering new wine regions. Do you have a favorite lesser-known wine region? Be sure to email us and tell us all about it.

Wine Off the Beaten Path: Australia's Margaret River

Sat, 08 Jun 2019 16:57:00 GMT

Some say Perth, Australia is the most isolated city in the world. While there are different ways to validate such a distinction, as Perth is closer to Jakarta, Indonesia (1,825 miles) than Sydney (2,045 miles), I’ll accept the claim. In which case, Margaret River (a 3-hour drive south of Perth), must be a strong candidate for the world’s most isolated wine region. To get there, I took a 3-hour flight from Seattle to Los Angeles (plus layover), a 14-hour flight from LA to Sydney (plus customs, immigration, and layover), then a 5-hour flight to Perth (plus overnight rest), followed by that 3-hour drive. Whew!

The May (i.e., autumn) weather was quite pleasant, but I remember my only previous trip to Perth for the blazing February (i.e., summer) heat. I visited the Swan Valley wine region then and noted the challenges facing winemakers as the climate has been heating up over the last many years. While the Margaret River region is a bit further from the equator, I fully expected it to be facing similar difficulties. Margaret River, however, is not only closer to the ocean but also has water on three sides. This introduces an important moderating effect I had not understood previously. As an added layer of climate complexity, Margaret River actually seems to be cooling down over time. This is certainly unique among the world’s wine regions and presents other challenges to winemakers just as any change in weather patterns would.

I chose Domaine Naturaliste (named for the nearby Cape Naturaliste rather than any particular winemaking philosophy) as my first stop. Founding winemaker Bruce Dukes studied agronomy in Australia then earned a master’s degree in viticulture at well-regarded UC Davis. He went on to work at the Coppola winery in Napa Valley before returning to Australia. He is known locally as a producer for many other brands and since I work as a négociant (sourcing the best available wine to bring to market), I was curious to know more about his work.

Naturaliste grows and produces wines from semillon, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, syrah, and cabernet sauvignon grapes. White blends are either “SSB” (semillon dominate) or “SBS” (sauvignon blanc dominant). Chardonnay, syrah, and cab sauv are used for varietal wines (i.e., no blending with other varieties). I found the whites fresh and tropical, the chardonnays tending toward a lean style, and the reds reflective of the cooler climate (e.g., some white pepper on the syrah, while cabs showed eucalyptus and menthol). Native yeasts (i.e., whatever occurs naturally in the vineyard and winery) are often used for fermentation, carbonic maceration (a winemaking technique meant to highlight sweet fruit flavors) is employed in the syrah production, and oak treatment is restrained overall (never more than 40% new oak with frequent use of neutral, previously used barrels). My conclusion? Domaine Naturaliste is a lovely estate with laudable wines and proved a friendly spot to start my day.

Vasse Felix prides itself as Margaret River’s “Founding Wine Estate.” Established in 1967 (the very definition of “New World Wine”), the setting, plentiful art, hospitality, and, oh yes, the wine, certainly live up to the legacy. (While I didn’t dine here, I imagine the cuisine is just as impressive.) Vasse Felix focuses on chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz (Aussie for syrah) and semillon-sauvignon blanc blends. There’s also a bit of merlot, petit verdot, and Malbec used for blending. I tasted through a tremendous round of whites and reds including a Bordeaux blend named for the founder, Tom Cullity , which represents only 0.7% of total production. Of all the excellent wines, the most interesting to me was the 2018 “Blanc,” a 100% sauvignon blanc that spends 30 days on the grape skins thus producing a golden color, perfumed nose, and flavors of apricot and honey (the last being unusual for a young wine). With an annual production of 150,000 cases (a medium-sized output in the big picture but quite significant for a boutique-style producer), I was profoundly impressed with the level of personalized hospitality and excellence on display. The addition of so many stirring works of art (both inside and out) was an additional admirable touch.

The tasting room managers at Naturaliste and Felix had both raved about neighboring Cullen Wines so I decided to pop in for a quick bite and a glass of the Rose Moon Pét-Nat ( Pétillant Naturel , the original method of producing sparkling wine used before the Champagne method) made from a blend of Bordeaux grapes (while not specified, I presume cabernet sauvignon with possibly some malbec, petit verdot, merlot, or cabernet franc as well). It’s a hard wine to describe being both earthy and fruity, rustic and delicate. It’s also a surprisingly complex wine and presents plenty more to consider on the nose and palette. The organic, biodynamic, sustainable, and carbon-neutral farm grounds and gardens were a pleasure to explore. While the local parrots were a delight to the eyes, the preponderance of birds do create significant challenges in protecting and preserving the fruit in the vineyard.

After a quiet amble through the town of Margaret River and another stroll through the grounds surrounding Leeuwin Estate , I settled in for a fine dining experience at the estate restaurant which serves dinner only once a week. I skipped around the menu choosing small plates that I thought would pair well with the wines I most wanted to try. I selected wagyu beef with a pinot noir-chardonnay sparkler, braised cabbage (with lime and pistachios) with a dry riesling, and an absolutely delicious cheese plate with a lightly oaked chardonnay. I also visited the striking art gallery downstairs between courses. Which is not to be missed!

So after 25 hours of travel time (plus all the layovers, etc…), I had to consider whether Margaret River was worth all that effort. There are many great wine regions around the world, of course. Many of which are more historic, famous, exclusive, or whatever (not to mention easier to get to). On the spectrum between very good and great, Margaret River wines are certainly somewhere in the mix. Bordeaux, Napa, Rioja, Chianti, Champagne and others may already be on your list but if you want to go just a bit (or a LOT) off the beaten path, you should certainly consider Margaret River. Just don’t get in any hurry to arrive.

The world of wine never ceases to teach and surprise us. Had any good wine surprises lately? Be sure to email us and tell us all about it.

Wine Off the Beaten Path: Italy's Montefalco

Mon, 22 Apr 2019 22:20:00 GMT

Wine enthusiasts travel to historic and exotic wine regions like Bordeaux and Burgundy by the truck loads. And why not? The wines are remarkable and the locations are inspiring (or so we’re told). For whatever reason, however, we’re more of an “off the beaten path” crew (we’ve explored wine production in Japan , Mexico , and India , for example). Which is why we went to Italy. That’s right, Italy. OK, so Chianti, Barolo, and Barbaresco put Italian wine on the map long, long ago. But there are unique, little known, and hyper-local expressions of winemaking traditions even in a country that’s been making wine for millennia. The Umbrian village of Montefalco is a wonderful example.

Landlocked and more or less smackdab in the middle of the country, Umbria is at the heart of Italy. As its only region with no direct access to the sea or another country, Umbria has developed its own culture and cuisine both characteristically Italian and simultaneously distinctive. You’ll not find any seafood in its traditional fare, for example. Instead, wild boar, truffles, and local olive oil are some of the most common ingredients. Locals are proud of their cured meats, cheeses, and pasta (Umbricelli, anyone?) as well as the highly tannic and powerful sagrantino wines from Montefalco.

Like all historic Umbrian towns, Montefalco (i.e., “Falcon Mountain”) was built atop a hill for reasons of defense (Italian villages used to fight like Montagues and Capulets) vineyards are spread out down the slopes immediately outside the city walls. There’s quite a bit of sangiovese as well as merlot and barbera (most think of this as an exclusively northern Italian variety) for use in pleasurable but less expressive “Rosso” blends (for those nights when you don’t want the smack in the mouth you can count on from sagrantino). The most common white grape in the region is grechetto though there are many others grown. There’s also the little known (but newly exciting to us) trebbiano spoletino.

Fewer than 100 wineries in Montefalco produce about 2 million bottles of wine annually. Which may seem like quite a lot. As a comparison, however, the Chianti Classico region (the original, most exclusive part of the larger Chianti region) produces closer to 40 million bottles per year. About half of the bottles produced in Montefalco are consumed locally and the rest of the world gets the rest. Only a small amount of which is 100% sagrantino.

Perhaps it’s just the impression made by the wineries we visited, but there appears to be a strong movement toward increased quality, artisanal practices, and so-called “natural” winemaking in Montefalco. Our first stop, Paulo Bea , was a founding member of the “ ViniVeri ” (i.e., “TrueWine”) Italian winery consortium in 2004. Organic and biodynamic methods are employed in the vineyards, all wines are fermented from native yeasts, and the winery doesn’t even employ climate control other than smart, functional architecture.

In spite of showing up without a required reservation (typical Americans), we were treated with warm hospitality (typical Italians). We were guided through a tasting and tour of the facility by head agronomist, Sergio. That’s another thing about the winemaking philosophy at Paulo Bea, there’s no “winemaker.” Or at least there’s no one with that title. With a stated value to “trust to nature the transformation of the grapes to wine,” the care and tending of the vineyards and winery is the conceptual (and practical) focus.

With only 30 acres of vineyards, production is small at Paolo Bea. Without the use of pesticides and other chemicals, the vineyards are vulnerable to climate and blight so each vintage varies in volume and every once in a while is actually lost altogether. Each wine bottle is numbered along with an indication of how many were produced that year. For example, we enjoyed a unique orange wine (a wine made from white grapes but fermented on the grape skins to extract more color and flavors) from a single-acre vineyard and a production of only 180 bottles.

This particular wine (the first we tasted) was also perhaps the most unique of the day. The 2012 “Arboreus” is 100% trebbiano spoletino (NOT the same as the trebbiano grape), a local native variety. The grapes are from old vines (which grow among trees that support the vines), the wine is fermented from native yeasts (i.e., whatever happens to be on the grapes and in the winery), and is fermented on its skins for 23 days (most white wines are removed from the skins before fermentation begins to preserve the most delicate flavor compounds). Most interesting of all, perhaps, is that the wine is made in the “ripasso” method. Which means that additional grape skins are added to the fermentation to extract even more flavor and color. With perfumed aromas of dried fruit and orange blossom and layers of complex flavors, this is a wine for drinking (and pondering) slowly.

The 2011 “Pipparello” is 60% sangiovese, 25% montepulciano d’Abruzzo, and 15% sagrantino. The grapes are grown and fermented together, spend ten months in stainless steel, then age for 44 months in large, neutral, Slavonian oak vessels. Aromas and flavors of dry leaves, dark cherry, and baking spices are noteworthy. The 2010 “Pagliaro” presents some of the same characteristics but as 100% sagrantino, it is a much more powerful wine.

Like the first wine we tasted, the final was quite a surprise as well. The 2007 Montefalco Sagrantino Passito is made in the common historical style of Montefalco Sagrantino. After grapes are thoroughly dried for a few months following harvest, the small amount of remaining juice is fermented in a sweet style. The wine spends 10 years in stainless steel before it’s bottled and released. The deep dark color and intense flavors of dried fruits make it a truly special wine.

After visiting Paolo Bea, we ambled through the village to find lunch then walked on to visit the Montioni Winery . Similar to the methods employed at Paolo Bea, Montioni uses only native yeasts for fermentation and a low-intervention agricultural style. The winery was established 50 years ago by the grandfather of the current owner. Under the guidance of Paulo Montioni, a boutique production approach focuses on quality over quantity (current annual production is less than 5,000 cases). Similar care goes into the production of olive oil at Montioni. Paolo Montioni described his sagrantino as “robust but not aggressive,” which we thought fitting. Overall, the wines were earthy and vigorous.

Our final stop was Cantina Fratelli Pardi where Alberto tasted us through several delicious and impressive wines. With a similar story to Montioni, the current generation have moved the winery toward higher-quality output and modernized production methods. The acid-driven “Spoletino” was especially intriguing. From 100% trebbbiano spoletino, the wine is made of free press juice (what runs from the grapes after crushing but before pressing), is aged for 9 months “sur lie” (i.e., without removing expended yeast from the fermentation process) in stainless steel, then aged for another 9 months in bottle before release. The delicious flavors and creamy mouthfeel made it a standout.

Also not to be missed at Pardi is the Montefalco Sagrantino Passito. The grapes are picked in October, dried for 2 to 3 months, and then pressed gently to claim the very sweet juice remaining. The juice ferments in stainless steel tanks then the wine is aged in oak for a year and a half followed by another year of ageing in stainless steel. After bottling, the wine is aged one last time for 6 months. Whatever you’re having for dinner, ending the evening with this wine will make for a delicious finale.

While s agrantino is the undeniable star of the Montefalco show, all three wineries we visited demonstrated examples of other interesting and delicious wines as well. Though Montefalco does not have the name recognition of Rioja or Rhone, it’s a lovely place with beautiful people, ancient traditions, and power, unique (and some might say “extreme”) wine. These wines are not easy to find in many areas outside of Italy but any search will be rewarded. Making the trek to visit Montefalco in person will be especially gratifying for those fortunate enough to do so.

Have your own Italian wine surprise story? Be sure to email us and tell us all about it.

Wine Off the Beaten Path: Mexico

Fri, 18 Jan 2019 21:12:00 GMT

Mexico was the first wine producing region in North America (God bless the missionaries and their vineyards!). While being first doesn’t necessarily suggest a claim to quality, it does lend a certain authenticity to the country’s modern winemaking efforts. Like other “New World” regions, there have been plenty of ups and downs for wine production in Mexico. The last few decades ushered in a notable shift toward modern production methods, however, making Mexico both a very old and very young wine region at the same time.

Valle de Parras

The “Valley of Vines” is the original wine region in the western hemisphere. While Chile and Argentina were close behind, Mexico will always be able to claim this lofty distinction. About 150 miles west of Monterrey, Valle de Parras drew attention from Spaniards for its potential to grow wine grapes. (They even named it after grapes!) While it is currently the home of only a handful of wineries, locals are invested in their history and wineries are working to better meet the preferences of new generations of wine drinkers–both in Mexico and abroad.

The local town of Parras is a delightful place to stay with many restaurant options and warm, inviting residents. While most visitors come from Monterrey and Mexico City, there’s plenty to do for anyone from anywhere who wants to spend a few days in a beautiful environment enjoying wine, local cuisine, and nature.

Casa Madero

The first commercial winery in the Americas, Casa Madero , was established in 1597 by appointment of the Spanish King, Philip II. There is a proud sense of tradition there along with quite a bit of vineyard area (nearly 1,000 acres). Like other legacy wineries, Casa Madero also made brandy in the past, but that is not a current emphasis in production. Most vines are 15-20 years old with a slightly younger organic vineyard as well. Chenin blanc, semillon, gerwürztraminer, chardonnay, merlot, malbec, shiraz, tempranillo, and cabernet sauvignon are all grown onsite. A combination of French and American oak are in use. In a nod to South American wine making (the current head winemaker is Chilean), the malbec spends 2 years in new oak barrels.

Rivero Gonzalez

Another large producer in the area is RG|MX with an expansive estate of 25 year old vines. The entire estate is farmed organically and only native yeast is used for fermentation. I found the wines to be delicious and well made with a particularly exciting “orange” wine made from riesling and palomino grapes. Other varieties grown include chenin blanc, chardonnay, merlot, malbec, syrah, and cabernet sauvignon. Overall, the wines showed the kind of nuance and personality that would please a wide variety of wine enthusiasts.

Vinícola Parvada

The newest entry to the local wine scene is Parvada , envisioned as an entire complex for the production of wine along with residences, lodgings, entertainment, restaurants, and shopping. Not all the development is complete (there are more phases ahead), but the vineyards are planted and a winery of considerable size is up and running. The vines are quite young, so the best years for production definitely lie ahead. Nonetheless, the hospitality (and locally sourced cheese!) were lovely.

Valle de Guadalupe

Nearly 90% of Mexico’s wine is produced in Baja California (the long “finger” that extends south from the west coast of the USA)–and most of that in the Valle de Guadalupe. With vineyards at the 32nd parallel north, you’ll be hard pressed to identify a serious wine region around the world sharing a similar coordinate (French presence in Algeria and Tunisia once contributed to a focus on wine in those countries but that ended in the middle of the 20th century). Its proximity to the equator makes Baja a marginal climate for wine grape growing so some might doubt its potential.

By way of comparison, the southern hemisphere offers more promise. The 32nd parallel south passes through important wine regions in Chile, Argentina, South Africa, and Australia. These areas would be too hot for quality wine production were it not for the cooling influences of ocean and altitude. Not coincidentally, vineyards in the Valle de Guadalupe are just a short drive from the Pacific Ocean. The elevation is not especially remarkable (the valley floor is 1,500 ft above sea level), but it’s enough to contribute a cooling effect during hot months. Together, ocean breezes and altitude make quality viticulture possible.

Vineyards

The climate in the Valle de Guadalupe is classified as Mediterranean (the abundance of olive trees supports the conclusion) so summers can be quite hot and rainfall is limited. Newer vineyards often incorporate drip irrigation infrastructure and take advantage of planting and trellising methods that allow for the shading and cooling of grapes during the growing season. More traditional plantings of “head trained” (AKA gobelet) vines are also common. Used extensively in hot climates like Spain, these vines are pruned close to the ground where the air is cooler and are trained in such a way that leaves shade grapes from the intense sun. These vineyards are inexpensive to plant (there’s no trellising to install) but labor-intensive to maintain.

Varieties

Given the hot and dry conditions, there are limits to which varieties of wine grapes are fit for the region. Large plantings of tempranillo and grenache are complemented by other warm climate red grapes such as cinsault, mourverdre, and aglianico (all of which are well-represented in the warmer regions of Spain, France, and Italy). Popular international varieties cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and syrah are also planted. There are surprises here and there as well. Nebbiolo and barbera (grapes typically considered best grown in cooler climates) are planted to an unexpected degree in the region.

While a few white varieties like chenin blanc and chardonnay are found here and there, this is not a white wine drinker’s paradise (though pink wines are abundant). In spite of the challenges of the climate (maintaining the lean, acidic profile of many white wines is not easy in hot conditions), growers and winemakers will hopefully embrace opportunities to increase white wine production in the future to round out what the area has to offer.

Finally, while there is no apparent signature grape (or grapes) in the region currently, the degree of experimentation with such a broad array of varieties is commendable. Baja is certainly not the world’s only wine region still sorting out its strengths and weaknesses.

Wineries

There are 130 commercial wine producers in the Valle de Guadalupe, so it can feel overwhelming to choose where to visit. Melchum , Adobe Guadalupe , Decantos , and Villa Montefiori are certainly worthy of consideration. If you’re in an adventurous mood, a drive south to Baja’s oldest winery Bodegas Santo Tomás is its own reward. Established in 1888, it was also the first winery in Mexico to have a woman as the head winemaker. In these and many other locations, both the wine and setting are quite lovely. Plus, tasting fees are routinely in the $5 to $15 range. Which is difficult to find in the best American wine regions.

Food

Along with the burgeoning wine industry, an impressive array of excellent dining options dot the valley. From pizza to seafood to authentic Mexican classics, there is hardly a disappointing meal to be found. With a clear understanding that fresh and local ingredients make the best offerings, the standout restaurants in the valley leave a lasting impression. Corona del Valle , Deckman’s , Hacienda Guadalupe , and the food truck at Adobe Guadalupe are all excellent options. Like the wine, the food is attractively priced for tourists. Similar quality meals are only about half the cost of what would be expected in a major west coast city like Los Angeles or San Francisco.

Final Thoughts

While Valle de Guadalupe offers excellent wine and food at a great value, there are plenty of challenges ahead for Mexican wine. There is a steep tax on wine production (44%!) which creates a context in which Mexican wine enthusiasts are incentivized to purchase imported wine for much less than wine from Mexico. Unfortunately, the government is unlikely to lift this burden as most Mexican wine is made and sold close to the border with the US (meaning many buyers can afford it). This presents a real obstacle for developing a regional wine culture (especially in a country where beer is already so dominant). Let’s hope a powerful senator or other government official takes a personal interest in promoting Mexican wine domestically some time soon so we can all benefit from more of it!

FAQ

Q: Is it safe?

A: You may read or hear about violence in Mexico, but I doubt you’ll ever encounter any. Mexicans are generally lovely people and hospitality is a strong cultural value. Having said that, any place can be dangerous so do exercise common sense and always be aware of your surroundings like anywhere else.

Q: Do I need to speak Spanish?

A: It wouldn’t hurt but it’s not necessary. In Parras, you may need to limp along conversationally while pointing to menu items, etc… Many tasting room employees in Valle de Guadalupe, however, are young people from the nearby city of Ensenada and English is commonly spoken by this demographic.

Q: Don’t Mexicans dislike Americans now?

A: If you’re from the USA, this is a natural question. In spite of current political rhetoric, however, Mexicans don’t seem to hold any of the negativity against visitors. Again, it’s an extremely hospitable country.

Q: How do I get to Parras?

A: With a sense of adventure! Flying into Torreón may be preferable to fighting the traffic in Monterrey. Either way, you’ll need to rent a car or catch one of the occasional regional buses to Paras. The once daily bus ride from Torreón to Parras is 3.5 hours (2 hours direct by car), so don’t get in a big hurry if you opt for this approach. It is certainly an interesting way to experience locals and their vibrant culture.

Q: How do I get to Valle de Guadalupe?

A: If you’re coming from the US or Canada (or maybe anywhere outside of Mexico), you should consider flying into San Diego and renting a car there. Drive inland to cross at the sleepy border checkpoint at Tecate for a scenic drive and easy process. The total drive from the airport to Valle de Guadalupe is about 2.5 hours. A rugged vehicle is highly recommended since all roads (except the main highway) can produce a rough ride.

Q: What’s it going to cost?

A: Lodging is about 75% the cost of what might be expected in west coast areas of the US. There are several levels of accommodations available, however, and luxury options will not be too much of a bargain. As mentioned previously, food is often a value (with no sacrifice in quality).

Have your own Mexican wine experience? We’d love to hear about it (surprising or not). Please email us.

Wine Tips: Food and Wine Pairing Basics

Wed, 09 Jan 2019 04:35:00 GMT

Why does food and wine pairing seem like such a complicated topic? I can think of three reasons. For those of us in the so called “New World” of wine (i.e., outside Europe), there’s little tradition or cultural intuition when it comes to serving appropriate wine with different dishes and meals. In fact, wine is seen as a drink to be consumed in the absence of food (i.e., a cocktail) primarily in countries like the US and Australia. In the “Old World” wine regions of Europe, wine is generally considered part of a meal. In fact, wine is food for many Europeans. Which means there’s a built-in sensibility for matching wine with food that goes back generations (and centuries).

Another reason food and wine pairing can be a daunting subject is that there are so many more kinds of food available to each of us than ever. If you grew up in a Hungarian village a hundred years ago, food and wine options were limited and pretty clear when it came to matching them. But now Hungarians have access to food from north Africa and wine from South Africa (same gigantic continent but extremely different cuisines and cultures). Now multiply that one example by the spread of previously-obscure foods all over the world. Plus, many kinds of food are available to us from parts of the world with little to no wine tradition at all (Vietnam, Mexico, Ethiopia, and so on), so there are no time-tested guidelines.

Finally, food and wine pairing can feel overwhelming because there is no single guideline to follow. Sometimes it’s best to match wine and food in their taste and flavor components so they complement one another (e.g., barbecue and a smoky zinfandel). Other times, a contrast serves better (bitter food plus bitter wine is usually just too much bitter). Thankfully, you don’t have to be an expert to experiment in a thoughtful way. As long as you’re willing to move on from the “drink what you like, eat what you like” advice you once heard (you’re no slacker, after all), and commit to learning a little at a time, you’ll develop a solid sense of how food and wine fit together.

Where Do We Start?

Perhaps the most basic consideration to help solve food and wine pairing mysteries is the actual purpose of the wine served with a meal. As much as some sommeliers may hate to admit it, wine generally accompanies a meal (not the other way around) and the primary role of a beverage is to cleanse and refresh a diner’s palate so each successive bite tastes as good as the first. High acid wines are refreshing and cut through tastebud-coating fat so are very flexible. Consider riesling, pinot noir, and most sparkling wines in this category. Want to pair a steak with Champagne? Don’t let anyone stop you! Including your cousin Norman who’s always carrying on about California cabernet.

The First and Best Guideline

A practical, time-tested tip for pairing is the classic, “If it grows together, it goes together.” Having Beef Bourguignon? Pair it with a red wine from Bourgogne (i.e., Burgundy). Schnitzel? Grab a well-known German wine like riesling. Pasta with a bolognese sauce? You got it, a red Italian wine (there happen to be a lot of those so just choose something you’ve heard of to get started). This one guideline will take you surprisingly far.

Flavor Components

Any thoughtful consideration of this subject requires a look at food and wine flavor components and how they interact with each other. Sweet foods as well as those with strong savory umami characteristics bring out any harsh characteristics in a wine (such as bitter and sour flavors) as well as diminish the gentle elements of wines (like sweet and fruity sensations). This is why desserts should be paired with very sweet wines and umami-driven foods are sometimes just difficult to pair altogether (though fruity wines without too much acid or tannin are a good place to start).

On the other hand, salt and sour flavors in food have the opposite effect on the perception of wine. So adding salt to a dish high in umami makes it easier to pair with wine. This is also why french fries can pair with just about anything (though care should be taken not to pair salty food with especially big wines as salt does increase the sense of body in a wine). For foods high in acid (like much Asian cuisine), it’s often best to choose a wine high in acid as well. Otherwise, the wine may seem too flabby on the palate.

Protein

It’s common to consider the main protein in a meal when planning a wine accompaniment. Steak with cabernet sauvignon, pork with pinot noir, chicken with chardonnay, fish with sauvignon blanc, and so on. But there are red wines that pair with many fish and seafood dishes (such as gamay or zweigelt) and there are white, pink, and orange wines that can easily pair with pork (for example, oaked chardonnay, Tavel, and white wines fermented on their skins from northern Italy or Slovenia). Also note that fatty meats (like a marbled ribeye) often combine well with high-tannin wines. The protein matters, but how it is cooked and seasoned makes a difference, too.

Spicy Food

Spicy (i.e., picante) food is described as “hot.” Alcohol is experienced as heat. While there certainly may be some masochists out there who enjoy a doubly hot culinary experience, spicy food is generally an occasion for a tasteful contrast. Spicy Chinese food often pairs quite nicely with a low-alcohol Vinho Verde, for example. A universally appreciated contrast in flavors is spicy with sweet. So not surprisingly, spicy Thai food pairs well with off-dry riesling (which is just a little sweet, low in alcohol, and high in acid as well).

Flavor Intensity

It’s important to consider not only the specific flavor components in food and wine but also the intensity of those components. It’s often appropriate to match simple with simple and complex with complex so neither overwhelms the other. There are exceptions, of course. Spicy food with complex flavors (such as many Indian dishes) can work well with a simple wine as an equalizer. A simple dessert also provides an opportunity for a complex sweet wine to reveal its depths of complexity and nuance.

Context is Everything

Cold weather draws us to certain foods as well as particular kinds of wine. I’ve noticed in our own tasting events that pinot noir is big in the spring and summer while more tasters go for cabernet sauvignon in cooler weather. Big-bodied, high alcohol wines are more pleasing when it’s cold outside while hot weather makes refreshing wines more attractive. I once attended a tasting of red wines from Tuscany while in Singapore. It held was outside near the hottest time of the day and that was not a pleasant experience. Sparkling wine is often served at occasions to celebrate (going back to when kings of France were crowned at the Reins cathedral in the Champagne region), but if dessert is also served, be sure to pick a sweet sparkler for the occasion.

Putting it All Together

For an easy extra touch, use the wine you plan to serve in the dish you’re cooking. This will help tie the flavors together. And if it doesn’t seem the dish would be enhanced by the addition of the wine in preparation, then it probably will not be a good pairing at the table, either.

Here are some quick reminders to send you on your way to your next food and wine pairing adventure:

Bitter foods should not be paired with especially tannic or astringent wines.
Umami foods call for a fruit-forward wine (and maybe salt that asparagus a bit to help).
Eating something sweet? Pick a wine at least as sweet to accompany it.
Having a salty meal? Wine flavor components including acid and bitterness will do well. Just be sure to select something light to medium bodied.
Enjoying a sour (i.e., acidic) dish featuring citrus flavors? Select a high acid wine to go along.
Chili heat should be paired with wines that are fruity, and/or a little sweet (and be careful with the alcohol level).

Discover a surprisingly delicious food and wine pairing recently? Please let us know by email .

Variety Spotlight: Pinot Noir Forever (and Ever)

Mon, 29 Oct 2018 17:14:00 GMT

I have a friend who tells me he doesn’t like pinot noir. And I do sincerely pity him with all my heart. Each time he reminds me of his misguided ways, I wonder if he just needs a hug. He has such an otherwise reasonable, intelligent, and considerate demeanor. He even loves wine! I can only assume that he just hasn’t discovered the pinot noir for his own tastes. Maybe it’s not too late for him. In honor of my dear friend, let’s examine the important regions for and styles of pinot noir from around the world. But first, why is pinot noir such a special wine?

You may be familiar with the Hollywood version. Miles, the lead character in the movie Sideways is asked why he loves pinot noir so. “It’s a hard grape to grow,” he responds. “It’s thin-skinned, temperamental. Ripens early. You know, it’s not a survivor like cabernet. Which can just grow anywhere and thrive even when it’s neglected. No, pinot needs constant care and attention. In fact, it can only grow in these really specific and tucked away little corners of the world. And only the most patient and nurturing of growers can do it, really. Only someone who really takes the time to understand pinot’s potential can then coax it into its fullest expression. Then? I mean, oh its flavors! They’re just the most haunting and brilliant, thrilling and subtle and ancient on the planet.”

There’s a lot I can affirm in there (though I’m not sure many cabernet sauvignon growers would agree that their job is a walk in the park). More importantly, it makes a great story. But you can’t drink a story.

A little more to the point, here’s the typical explanation you’ll hear from wine professionals: Pinot noir represents the purest expression of a wine grape and its terroir. (Or something to that effect.) Also, the grape is finicky. And the texture of the wine can be luscious. When all concrete descriptions fall short, you can expect abstract appeals to concepts like “mystery” and “seduction.” None of this strikes me as wrong, but what does “seduction” taste like?

Here’s my own explanation for why pinot noir has attracted so many passionate admirers. It’s about how the wine actually tastes. Especially with food. I enjoy a Northern Rhône or Bordeaux blend with a big steak. Or a Chianti Classico alongside a delicious mound of pasta covered in red sauce. But who eats that way on a regular basis? Wine is made to pair with food and pinot noir pairs with an unusually wide variety of dishes and cuisines. Red wine with fish? Pork? Poultry? Vegetarian? Japanese? Indian? Mexican? Breakfast? Want to tie together a whole bunch of crazy flavors on the table (like at an American Thanksgivings meal)? How about you’re going to a dinner party and have no idea what’s being served? In these and so many other cases, pinot noir is the obvious answer. The high acid content helps to cleanse the palate and the low tannins allow food flavors to come through unhindered. Pinot noir is a flexible, friendly food wine like few others. So take that , Paul Giamatti!

Bourgogne

Known as “Burgundy” in English-speaking cultures, this part of France is the ancestral home of pinot noir (as well as chardonnay). For reasons unknown (though I’m assuming nefarious), Burgundy is the only wine region in France that isn’t commonly known by its French name internationally (think Bordeaux, Loire, Rhône, Alsace, Provence, and so on). While some of the most expensive wines in the world come out of Burgundy, overall it labors in the long shadow of its more glamorous cousin, Bordeaux.

Bordeaux has built its reputation on 3 "Bs": Business; blending; and bling. The region has a history of savvy trade practices, it traditionally blends wines from different varieties to maximize the potential of each vintage (and to mitigate the shortcomings of any given growing season), and there’s nothing modest about the many famous châteaux there. Bourgogne, on the other hand, is a farming region filled with hardworking purists. Burgundians would never thinking of blending pinot noir with other grapes. If you can’t farm a great vine, you can’t make a great wine!

Burgundian pinot noir can be both delicate and powerful simultaneously. Light red fruit flavors mixed bitter and sweet (reminiscent of cranberries) and often intermingle with flavors of earth (dried leaves, forest floor, “barnyard”), particularly when aged. The most complex and treasured wines are associated with particular vineyards (not wineries, as in Bordeaux). These are found in villages such as Gevrey-Chambertin, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanée, and Nuits-Saint-Georges. Village (same in English as French) designated wines are simple, while Premier Cru wines are more complex, and Grand Cru wines comes from only the most elite vineyards (making up about 1% of the acreage under vine in Bourgogne) where slope, aspect, and soil drainage all combine to produce tremendous fruit.

Oregon

Pinot Noir wines from Oregon are generally delicate and thought to be more Burgundian with earthy flavors like mushroom incorporated and encouraged by the winemaking process. Warmer sites can also produce wines with plum and other dark red fruit characteristics. The judicious use of French oak adds notes of baking spices. Along with wine style, there are other regional similarities with Burgundy: There’s expert farming (the Willamette Valley also produces grass seed, nuts, wheat, and many other crops alongside wine grapes); a special sensitivity to the impact of elevation on vineyards and grapes; and some common climate characteristics (and accompanying risks) in a marginal continental zone with variable weather patterns.

California

If the flavor of mushroom in wine doesn’t sound so great to you, perhaps consider pinot noir from Sonoma. Generally showing less restraint than pinot noir from Oregon (it’s not easy to compete with the massive cabernet sauvignons from one valley over in Napa), these wines can be ripe in flavor (even “jammy”) as climate tends to be warmer and more reliable here. Los Carneros (the only sub-AVA in both Sonoma and Napa counties) as well as the Russian River Valley are well-known for pinot noir with flavors of cherry and raspberry. Not surprisingly, these areas also produce excellent chardonnay, the other noble grape of Burgundy.

Other Pinot Noir Regions

German pinot noir tends to be very light in body and color with high acid and delicate red fruit. Australian pinot noir generally shows quite prominent fruit flavors. In New Zealand, Central Otago produces full-bodied pinot noir with some earthiness and higher alcohol, while the Marlborough region is known for more delicate versions.

The Downside to Pinot Noir

I have only one bit of bad news about pinot noir. It’s an expensive wine to make (and buy). Fruit yields per vine are generally lower than other varietals and as a touchy grape, growing it requires more hands-on attention from farm workers, which also adds to production costs. Eighteen dollars a bottle seems to be the absolute lower threshold for acceptable quality pinot noir these days. Everyday pinot noir is usually in the $22+ range (with fine examples of the variety fetching far more). A bottle of Domaine de la Romané-Conti will set you back thousands (and thousands) of dollars. Please be sure to let us know how you like it.

We’re on a constant search for the perfect pinot noir and have discovered many wine surprises along the way. If you have one to share, be sure to email us.

Wine Tips: Serving Temperature Matters

Sun, 01 Jul 2018 21:23:00 GMT

We learn a lot by pouring wine for customers (and have a lot of fun, too). Sometimes we’ll pour for a few hundred people a night. We try to interact along the way but it’s often a bit rushed on both sides of the table. So when we notice patterns in responses to our wines, it usually sticks with us. For example, we often hear, “Oh, you serve your pinot noir slightly chilled.” And we respond by talking about how the delicate berry flavors are best focused, preserved, and enjoyed when the wine is cooled down a bit. Otherwise, the wine can seem a bit flabby, we'll occasionally add. Sometimes we get perplexed looks back. Other times, it seems to register. So in response, let’s explore how the temperature of wine impacts its taste.

First, consider an illustration from outside of the wine world. Coffee is a great example of how serving a beverage at different temperatures changes how it tastes dramatically. I drink hot coffee black (and particularly enjoy it that way). But for iced coffee, I need milk. It’s just too bitter otherwise. A similar principle applied to food and wine pairing takes alcohol into consideration. Since alcohol is experienced on the palate as heat, high alcohol wines generally do not pair well with spicy foods. It’s just too overwhelming. These are two examples of balancing flavors and sensations. Sometimes we want to accentuate them instead.

For example, our 2015 Pinot Renoir mentioned above has a “flavorful burst of sweet berry fruit” (according to Wine Enthusiast magazine, anyway). It’s not actually a sweet wine, but it’s reminiscent of such named flavors (and our taste buds often associate “fruit” with “sweet”–some describe this aspect of certain dry wines as "fruit sweet" vs. "sugar sweet"). So when you eat berries, you probably prefer them a little chilled. Of course they can be served too cold (like frozen) but a hot berry isn’t anyone’s idea of a good time. Anyway, at 14.4% ABV, our 2015 Pinot Renoir is not especially shy in that regard, so cooling it down a bit helps balance the wine as well as accentuate the pleasing berry notes.

In general, the lighter the wine, the cooler it should be served to be best appreciated. Additionally, the simpler the wine, the cooler it should be enjoyed. A complex wine will not reveal itself well if too cold (especially aromatically) while a simple wine is meant to be consumed as a refreshing beverage (though perhaps not in the same volume as, say, lemonade). Finally, since oak aging adds complexity, that can also be a clue that you should not overchill a particular wine. Here’s an incomplete list with general guidelines of how cool to serve specific wines (from most cool to least):

Vinho Verde, albariño, and simple sparklers like Prosecco @ 45˚F (a few hours in the fridge then straight to your glass–or lips).

Chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, sémillon, pinot gris, Chablis, unoaked chardonnay, riesling, most pink wines, and Champagne/cremant/Cava @ 50˚F (chill for a few hours then take out of the fridge for about 20 minutes before serving).

Oaked chardonnay and some pink wines @ 55˚F (chill for a few hours then take out of the fridge for half an hour or so before serving).

Beaujolais/gamay, pinot noir, dolcetto, barbera, Chianti, grenache/garnacha @ 60˚F (depending on the starting temperature, chill for 60-90 minutes before serving).

Cabernet sauvignon, merlot, Bordeaux blends, malbec, cabernet franc, rhone blends, red Rioja, syrah/shiraz, zinfandel, Barolo, and Barbaresco @ 65˚F (again, depending on the starting point, chill for 30-45 minutes before serving).

Serve wines with these attributes more cool:

Light body
Simple flavors
Little or no oak influence

Serve wines with these attributes less cool:

Full body
Complex flavors
Significant oak influence

You may be wondering what ever happened to serving red wines at room temperature? In short, I can only ask that you please forget you ever heard that. It’s a guideline that has been with us a very long time (probably hundreds of years) and has now fully outlived its usefulness. Construction standards, HVAC technology, and our climate have all changed significantly since the heyday of lords and ladies. Serving white wines refrigerated and red wines at room temperature is just too simplistic a guideline for modern times. In fact, there’s almost never a case when any wine should be consumed at room temperature in the real world. Shocking, I know.

You’ll notice that the most complex, biggest bodied red wines mentioned above should be served at 65˚F (the very high end of “cellar temperature”). How often is your home (or favorite restaurant or winery tasting room) 65˚F? Rarely. If your heat is set to 68˚ or 70˚ in the winter, drinking a light bodied red wine (or even a full bodied red wine) at room temperature is going to impact the experience negatively. And since you paid money for that wine, why not get the most out of it? If your AC is set at 74˚ or 76˚ in the summer, then you can see the issue there as well. This isn’t some silly wine snobbery, these are tried and true guidelines for getting the most enjoyment and pleasure out of your hard-earned wine.

Drinking wine at home at the optimal temperature requires a little planning ahead so be sure to consider wine as part of your overall menu planning and start to chill (or remove from the fridge) as you’re preparing your meal. In case you need them, here are a couple of tips for chilling wine fast:

Wrap the bottle in a wet paper towel and put it in the freezer for 20-30 minutes.
Submerge the bottle in icy water (ice alone allows plenty of air pockets which insulate more than chill). This is the fastest way to chill wine. Unless you have a cryogenic chamber on hand.

Also, my favorite tip for keeping your wine at the best temperature is to drink it from a coffee mug. After all, mugs are built to keep liquid at a consistent temperature for as long as possible. Plus, it’s nobody’s business what’s in your cup!

Bonus #1: The Drum Roll Wine Guide to Wine Thermometers

I got kind of excited about this wine temperature topic and decided to test out some gadgets. I tried to be logical in my approach but do not claim any final authority on this (or any other) subject. Please also note that we are not promoting any particular brand at Drum Roll Wine so I'll refer to these wine thermometers as "A" through "E" as you'll notice in the photo above. There are also different manufacturers of similar styles of thermometers but we only tested one of each type.

A. The obvious disadvantage to this traditional thermometer is that you have to open a bottle to use it. However, you can also open a bottle, drop the thermometer into it, and put it in the fridge (if you have the vertical clearance) to bring the wine down to proper serving temperature. There's usually no harm at all in opening a bottle a little while before pouring it (though you should not expect this to have the same effect as proper decanting). You can also use this thermometer to measure the temperature of an individual glass of wine (unlike any of the other products tested here save "E"). Having said that, the primary application for this type of thermometer is likely in the preparation of craft cocktails. The glass construction is fragile (though this manufacturer offers a 5-year limited warranty and the product is indicated as dishwasher safe). This is the only analog option tested which comes with its own advantages. I like the feel of the grip, too. The temperature guide included is generic and contradictory (listing "Burgundy" red wines as best served in the range of 63˚ to 65˚F but Pinot Noir in the range of 58˚ to 60˚F). This device did seem the most reliable at the actual task of measuring the temperature of wine but I have no absolute way to verify that.

B. This thermometer is physically flexible, clips onto a bottle easily, and is reasonably quick to establish the temperature. The edges will scratch a label when removing if the user is not careful (which may matter in a restaurant setting). There are some odd recommendations on the box including instructions to serve Chianti in the same temperature range as “Rose” (46˚ to 54˚F) while “Medium Cherry” (your guess is as good as mine) should be served in the 50˚ to 57˚F range. There’s also a temperature suggestion for “Aperltie” (even the all-knowing internet doesn’t register on that one). Since the manufacturer is from the Netherlands (where very fine English is routinely spoken), I’m guessing the instructions were written elsewhere. The printing on the product itself seems to have benefitted from a copy editor as it reads “Aperitif." But as an extremely broad category, I’m not sure why a suggested temperature range would be given at all. At any rate, the product did seem reasonably accurate and the cost made it a low-risk purchase.

C. While the packaging here is quite generic, I did enjoy the user instructions: Put on the bottle, then you can see the temperature of the wine on the screen. And that pretty much sums it up. Unfortunately, the product is preset to measure in ˚C and in spite of my best efforts, I could find no way to switch it (inserting a paperclip into the pin hole got me nowhere). While I appreciate the rational nature of the Celsius scale, I'm just not going to remember two different guidelines to wine temperature. The band material is rigid so it can only be slid over the top of a bottle (unlike option "B" which clips on more flexibly). This device requires (and includes) a 1.5V battery and turns off when removed from a bottle. It is a bit slow to register a final temperature reading and didn't seem especially accurate.

D. Snapping this on a bottle is pretty fun and I really like the integration of a temperature guide on the back of the product itself (no other material to keep up with) in both ˚F and ˚C. The guide is a bit generic, however, and, similar to "A" above, provides two different temperature ranges for pinot noir as a variety and Bourgogne as a region. It also seemed a little slow to register a final temperature and I wasn't sold on the accuracy.

E. I'll just say it upfront– Infrared . BAM! This is the quickest of all the thermometers and also seems accurate (it was inline with results from "A"). It has a handy pocket clip as part of the design so for sommeliers on the go (or in the lab?) it may be a nice feature. It does require two (included) 1.5V batteries but has a 15-second auto-off feature to preserve battery life. Like "A," this device can measure bottles or glass pours. But it seems to be measuring the vessel itself rather than the liquid inside it (a small distinction, for sure, but a bottle from the fridge and a glass from the cabinet are different temperatures and a just-poured glass will not immediately plunge to the temperature of the wine inside it). There are puzzling suggestions given for Big Red, Good Red, Rose, Fine White, and Good White . Make of that what you will.

My conclusions? I appreciated the immediacy, accuracy, and flexibility of "E," the accuracy and cost of "A," and the value of "B." I do not recommend "C" or "D" but may continue to experiment with them in case I've rushed to judegement.

Bonus #2: Passive Wine Coolers Put to the Test

Have you noticed these affordable stainless steel “coolers”? They’re made with a double wall so the air in between provides natural insulation to help keep a bottle of wine at its intended serving temperature longer. There is no active chilling element so “cooler” seems a bit of a misnomer, but we don’t have a better idea so we’ll not quibble. We tested 2 models to see just how effective they might be at maintaining the temperature of a bottle of wine over the course of 90 minutes. One of these cost about $10 and the other was around $17. We were as skeptical going into the experiment as we were pleasantly surprised coming out of it.

We began with 3 identical bottles of wine all at a tested 47˚ Fahrenheit. The ambient temperature in our kitchen was around 72˚ so the conditions were relatively friendly to the coolers (both of which performed similarly, so the $7 difference didn’t seem to matter in our limited test). Within 15 minutes, the cooler bottles held at the original 47˚ while the control bottle warmed by 2˚. (The early indication was that these simple devices might actually be performing their intended purpose!) At 30 minutes in, the cooler bottles had warmed by only 1˚, but the control bottle added 5˚. Within an hour, the bottles in the coolers had added 3˚. The control bottle, however, was 10˚ warmer. At 90 minutes, the cooler bottles were only 5˚ cooler, while the control bottle was 13˚ warmer. A full hour later (2.5 hours after the beginning of the experiment), the cooler bottles were both measured at 55˚ (8˚ warmer than at the beginning) while the control bottle tested at 64˚ (thus adding 17˚ of unwanted warmth to the wine).

It must be emphasized that we did not test these bottles outside on a hot day and we can’t predict what results might ensue in that case. Under moderate indoor conditions, however, the wine coolers had a significantly positive impact on preserving the temperature of a chilled bottle of wine over a period of time. To add only 3˚ after an hour was impressive and suggested real world utility. We recommend having one of these coolers on hand even for bottles of red wine to be enjoyed in the 55˚ to 65˚ range. Some users apparently favor chilling the chiller and we might try that when summer months roll around again. In the meantime…

Happy Chillin’!

We always appreciate a chance to learn something new about wine. And we love a good wine surprise. Have one to share? Email us!

Wine Off the Beaten Path: Hong Kong

Mon, 18 Jun 2018 06:09:00 GMT

I came across this infographic from the American Association of Wine Economists showing the volume and market value of wine exports by country and found it quite surprising. Not because France, Italy, and Spain are the top wine exporting countries (no surprises there), but because Hong Kong is included in this snapshot of wine producing countries. I’ve been to Hong Kong several times and I know firsthand that the environment is utterly inhospitable to grape growing. It’s too hot, too humid, and there’s no apparent agriculture of any kind in the densely populated city. (The days of commercial opium poppy growing are long gone.) Considering the value of wine exported by country, Hong Kong is in the same league as Argentina–a proper wine producing country with several wines on the shelf at my local supermarket (which has none from Hong Kong, I might add). Befuddled, I set out to solve this mystery and it turns out to be a story of colonial history, recent economic policy, and the rise of wine consumption (along with just about everything else) in mainland China. There’s also a massive, secret WWII bunker involved (well, formerly secret). So let’s get started.

You might have already guessed that if Hong Kong is growing no grapes and making no wine, yet exporting as much (in value) as countries like South Africa, then it must be importing wine from producer countries and then re-exporting it. And since the value of wine exported far eclipses the volume, you might also expect a lot of the wine passing through Hong Kong to be of high value. You’d be right on both accounts. But exactly how did this come to be? It actually started farther back than you might imagine.

King Henry II ruled over Aquitaine (i.e., Bordeaux, France) in the 12th century as a result of marrying Eleanor–and the English taste for wine blossomed. Perhaps it was a matter of longing for what they could not otherwise have (with notable recent exceptions of sparkling wine from southern England and Wales, Great Britain has never been known for making wine–there’s a fundamental challenge of climate that has frustrated any efforts to produce quality wine at any significant volume). Or maybe it was a general fascination with French culture and fashions on the part of the dowdy English at the time. Whatever was originally behind this love of French wine, the English eventually lost control of Bordeaux in the 15th century and French wine commerce with England ceased. All in for wine by now, the English were not about to give up their grapey tipple and so began a long history of wine trading with Portugal. Even today you’ll notice that many Port brands carry English names such as Graham’s , Taylor’s , and Dow’s .

So the British have long been lovers of wine and practitioners of its trade, but it was interest in a different kind of commerce (as well as geopolitical power) that propelled this wine story forward to 19th-century Asia. The British fought the ruling Qing dynasty over access to trade with China. After its defeat in the first Opium War (perhaps you can guess what the #1 trade item of concern was for the British), China ceded Hong Kong Island (other parts of what is now known as greater Hong Kong were leased to the British later and held by the crown until 1997). Hong Kong thus became an important center of trade in the Pacific and when the British moved in, they brought British culture. Including an obsession with wine.

About a decade after the British handover of Hong Kong to China in 1997, an important development helped establish Hong Kong as a major wine exporter. Just as the expanding Chinese middle-class interest in wine was growing, the government of Hong Kong (operating under China’s “one country, two systems” philosophy) eliminated all import duties on wine. Since the entire Asian market for fine wine expanded over a similar timeline, Hong Kong became the obvious place to send and store high value wines for later shipment into mainland China, Macau, Singapore, and other areas with demand in the region (China represents 80% of all wine exports from Hong Kong and Macau another 10%). The wine industry in Hong Kong grew tremendously as a result. Brokers, auctioneers, and storage facilities multiplied.

One such example of the latter is the Crown Wine Cellars which makes use of enormous WWII-era bunkers originally constructed to keep British munitions hidden from the Japanese. It’s now a major wine storage facility and exclusive club for those with the means and interest to join. While it’s likely the largest and highest value wine storage facility in Hong Kong (there are over a million bottles on site ), there are also more than 40 other locations that qualify for the unique Hong Kong Quality Assurance Agency ’s certification for wine storage. As an illustration of just how much wine business passes through Hong Kong, Wine Spectator reported that total wine sales at auction in Hong Kong during 2017 was nearly $98 million. Making Hong Kong a larger fine wine auction market than London, which serves the entire European continent and beyond. In spite of this impressive growth, it's also clear that Asia (and China most specifically) is just getting started with wine. Making Hong Kong poised for plenty of additional growth in the trade of wine.

All this emphasis on exports of wine from Hong Kong should not completely overshadow the thriving market for wine consumption locally. Hong Kong is a great city for wine because Hong Kong is a great city for food. It’s a hub of finance and banking for Asia so it attracts those accustomed to fine dining. It’s also a cultural crossroads with an enormous restaurant scene (upscale and otherwise). Finally, the hot climate paired with small apartment homes makes dining out a natural diversion.

On my most recent visit to Hong Kong, my local host (generous with both his time and interest in wine) accompanied me to the charming neighborhood shop, “Premier Cru.” Managed by French expat Christophe, it’s chock full of a beautifully eclectic selection of French wine from small producers. Much more than a bottle shop, Premier Cru is also a great spot for a small bite with friends (there was plenty of that going on when we stopped in) as well as a place to learn and develop as a wine enthusiast. To that end, Christophe’s regulars keep notebooks on site for tracking tasting notes each time they visit. I appreciated his obvious commitment to sharing his knowledge of and passion for wine from his homeland.

My host and I enjoyed crab pate, scallop pate, a fresh baguette that seemed to materialize from nowhere (I jokingly asked Christophe what a Frenchman would be without a baguette and he responded, “Just some Italian guy.”). We polished off a bottle of 2014 Beaune white (i.e., a Chardonnay from Burgundy) followed by a fresh 2017 pink wine from Provence. Christophe has been in Hong Kong since 1994 (he came for love, naturally) and while he operates in the world of French wine, it was intriguing to learn a bit about the broader local market as well.

Bordeaux was the first region of interest for locals. Then Burgundy started to get noticed. California wines have become more popular as French wines with the most caché have become increasingly expensive. Hong Kong is also a major importer of Australian wine as well (the brand presence of Penfolds in various wine outlets was obvious and notable). There’s a growing audience for organic and biodynamic wines in Hong Kong and like so many locales, pink wines have been gaining popularity. Most of these trends are found in mainland China as well, not to mention the global wine market. It’s a small (wine) world, after all.

We'll endure the Hong Kong climate as long as there's a good glass or two of wine available. And we love a good wine surprise. Have one to share? Email us!

Wine Off the Beaten Path: Zealandia and Oz

Sun, 10 Jun 2018 01:51:00 GMT

Traveling to New Zealand is an ordeal. From almost anywhere. The direct flight from Los Angeles takes 13 hours of your life. About 10 hours into it you start to have that “seemed like a good idea at the time” feeling. By hour 11, you wonder why anyone would ever voluntarily endure such agony. By hour 12, you’re ready to swear off flying forever. Then as the airplane begins its initial descent, you pull up your window shade and it all suddenly makes sense. Even from the air, the beauty is as hard to fathom as it is to describe. On the ground, it gets even better.

Architecturally, the entire country is 1970s quaint. The natural beauty deserves its stellar reputation–mountains, sea, and all that fresh air (nevermind the hole in the ozone layer above you). And then there’s the wine. Ah, the wine. Per capita, New Zealand is the third largest wine producer in the world (churning out more wine than France by this measure–see the helpful infographic from the American Association of Wine Economists below). Fortunately for the rest of us, even the sloshy Kiwis can’t drink it all. Best known for highly aromatic sauvignon Blanc, there’s also a significant amount of excellent pinot noir produced there. It’s a cool climate growing region, after all. But there’s more to NZD wine than sauv blanc and pinot noir.

On my first visit to New Zealand in 2016, I visited wineries on Waiheke Island (just across the water from Auckland). I cozied up to the bar at the first cellar door (i.e., winery tasting room) to consider the Pinot Noir options (I don’t drink a lot of sauv blanc). Instead of pinot noir, however, I uncovered syrah, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, and cabernet franc. My perspective on NZD wine was simplistic (you know the saying about a little knowledge being dangerous?). While New Zealand is largely a cool climate wine country, Waiheke is not. There’s enough sun and heat here to grow and ripen much more than just sauv blanc and the pinot rainbow family (blanc, gris, noir). In fact, pinot noir would wither in this heat. In addition to the Auckland area, warm climate varieties are also grown in the Hawke’s Bay region of New Zealand.

On the south island, the stunningly beautiful Banks Peninsula is a site for lovely pinot noir. You’ll be hard pressed to decide whether the natural surroundings or the wine is more fetching (and let’s be honest, does it really matter?). It’s not a long drive from the city of Christchurch, but it feels like it’s far away from the day-to-day realities of “normal” life. The hospitality at French Peak was wonderful. The wines were equally delicious.

Similar to the association between cool-climate wines and New Zealand, Australian wine is best known for warm-climate shiraz (the term Aussies use for syrah). These are generally powerful, fruit-forward, high-alcohol wines, and the international brands mass marketed around the world are well-known. But thinking that this is all there is to Australian wine would be like thinking California is nothing but cabernet sauvignon and heavily oaked chardonnay (the massive amounts of CA pinot noir, zinfandel, and lightly oaked chardonnay alone prove otherwise). The large international brands receive so much attention that artisan wines are overshadowed as well (there are around 2,500 wineries in Australia–most of which are quite small), but Australia is an enormous land mass with a variety of climates so it’s reasonable to expect a bit more than might be apparent from an ocean away. Two of the best places to experience the cool-climate, delicate wines of Australia made by modest-scale producers are just a short drive from Melbourne (a wonderful destination in its own right)–the Yarra Valley and the Mornington Peninsula .

It’s easy to find delicate, expressive chardonnay, delicious pinot noir, and sparkling wine well worth the trip to the Yarra Valley. I especially appreciated the fine wines from Coldstream Hills (founded by wine expert James Halliday ) and Yarra Yering . The sparkling wines from Coldstream are world-class and the pinot noir from Yarra Yering is absolutely exquisite.

Wineries on the Mornington Peninsula also specialize in pinot noir as well as chardonnay and even some cool-climate syrah. (Since “shiraz” has come to connote a style almost as much as a variety of wine, not all wineries in this region use the traditional Aussie moniker.) Port Phillip Estate is one of the largest producers here. Polperro Winery and Paringa Estate are also great stops. As a bonus, the tasting fees are next to nothing around here!

I’ve found that the world of wine gets more complex the more I learn about it. These two countries and the reputation of their wines illustrate such intricacy. Which is what I love most about wine: Dive in and you’ll never hit bottom.

By the way, if you want to visit vineyards in Australia and New Zealand, keep in mind that the seasons are the opposite of North America and Europe. So January is a lovely time to consider. Harvest is spread out across February and March which might be fun to experience–but please try not to get in the way!

We enjoy discovering wine a little off the beaten path. And we love a good wine surprise. Have one to share? Email us!

Variety Spotlight: Find a Chardonnay You’ll Love (Even if You Don't Love Chardonnay)

Mon, 28 May 2018 19:42:00 GMT

We’ve been pouring our Chardonnay Monet at a lot of events lately and hear the same question and comment at least once a night. Can you guess what they are? The question we get is, “How oaky is your chardonnay?” (I’ll address that shortly.) And the statement we hear is, “I don’t like chardonnay.” It’s not just casual wine drinkers with this negative attitude toward chardonnay, by the way. “ABC” (i.e., Anything But Chardonnay) is a joke among the sommelier community and I assure you that referring to “candy corn” as an aroma descriptor is not a compliment. Pity the chardonnay grape–so maligned and misunderstood. Yet in spite of the bad mojo, chardonnay is actually the top-produced (and consumed) white wine in the world. Why?

For one thing, chardonnay will grow in nearly any region that will support grapes. From the coolest regions (think Oregon or Canada) to the warm end of the scale (like Napa and the Barossa in Australia), most viticulturally-friendly climes will grow chardonnay just fine. It’s also a flexible grape enologically. In other words, wineries can turn it into what they want based on the choices made in the production process. Chardonnay is called a “winemaker’s grape” for this reason (what artist doesn’t appreciate a medium allowing for maximum expression?). The other simple reason there’s so much chardonnay in the world is that though some love to hate it, many more wine drinkers love to drink it. With its long, illustrious history (especially in the tradition of Burgundy, France), there’s plenty to love about chardonnay. But also plenty to confuse.

There’s a prevailing perspective that there are essentially two kinds of chardonnay–oaked and unoaked. In my view, however, it’s better to think of three distinct styles of chardonnay (with varying degrees of each, of course), not including any sparkling wine made from chardonnay grapes. Consider a spectrum with unoaked chardonnay (usually fermented and aged in stainless steel, though concrete vessels are also utilized) on one end, and 100% new oak-fermented and aged chardonnay on the other. The best examples of the former are from the Chablis region of Burgundy (though sometimes light oak ageing is employed there), and the quintessential versions of the latter are invariably from California ( Rombauer and Kendall-Jackson come to mind).

There’s also a middle option on this spectrum, however. These are nuanced, complex, and restrained wines with plenty of body, but no strong butter or oak flavors such as vanilla. Much of Burgundy (e.g., the Montrachet district) produces elegant wines in this style and in spite of California’s reputation for chardonnay wines with enormous body, there are many producers there using oak judiciously (such as Grgich Hills and Williams Selyem ). Here’s another way to look at the three styles I’ve outlined.

Minerally and tart

These are the high-acid wines that imitate the traditional Chablis style (also found at better values from the Mâconnais region of Burgundy). The French sometimes call this type of wine a “fish wine.” Which sounds disgusting till you realize the meaning–it pairs well with fish.

Mellow fruit with medium body

Like chardonnay wines from many parts of Burgundy (other than Chablis and Macon), this restrained style is imitated around the world and pairs most easily with the widest variety of foods (it’s a go-to for nearly any kind of chicken dish, for example).

Big body, big butter

This opulent approach originated in California, though other wine regions dabble in something like this take on Chardonnay as well (e.g., Margaret River, Australia ). A rich, buttery Chardonnay can be challenging to pair well. Which, counter-intuitively, may actually be why it’s so popular–because it drinks well on its own. For a truly decadent experience, try it with macaroni and cheese. Or lobster. Or lobster macaroni and cheese.

Along with the 3 styles of chardonnay, there are 4 primary production factors that contribute to where the wine will fall on the spectrum described above.

Climate

Cooler climates produce grapes higher in acid. Since there is always a trade off between sugar and acid (as grapes ripen, sugars increase while acid decreases), these cool climate chardonnay wines are often higher in acid and lower in alcohol (less sugar in the juice translates to less alcohol in the wine). Warmer climates produce grapes with less acid and more alcohol. The alcohol contributes to the sense of body in a wine.

Malolactic fermentation

Insiders refer to this process as “ML,” “MLF,” or “malo” depending on their location in the wine world. It’s a somewhat confusing term because “fermentation” (especially in the context of winemaking) connotes a process that produces alcohol. But not all types of fermentation do so (for this reason, there is a recent push by some to call this process "malolactic conversion" instead). In short, ML is a winemaker’s choice to convert malic acid (responsible for the sharp, sour sensation that comes from a Granny Smith apple) into lactic acid (the far softer acid found in dairy products). The end result of malolactic fermentation is a gentler wine with a softer profile. It can also contribute dairy flavors or aromas like butter (note that it is NOT from oak treatment). A winemaker can employ “partial ML,” meaning that only some of the wine blended into a 100% chardonnay will take on these characteristics.

Sur lie

French for “on the lees,” this means that in the time period between fermentation and bottling, the wine rested on the expended yeast cells remaining from the fermentation process. In some cases, this adds aromas of bread or hazelnut. Along with a greater sense of body to a wine that might otherwise seem thin. To make the most of this process, some winemakers stir the lees in the bottom of barrels on occasion to expose more of the wine to the impact of the inactive yeast.

Oak fermentation and/or ageing

Ferment and age a chardonnay in new oak and you’ll likely impart aromas and flavors of butterscotch, vanilla, and general "toast." Plus oak, of course. You know, like wood. As well as an overall extra richness to the texture and flavors. Using “neutral” oak barrels (i.e., previously used) will not impart these flavors as strongly, but will still provide the micro-oxygenation that comes from an oak vessel (adding body). Combinations of new and used oak along with varying degrees of oak fermentation (and/or oak ageing) give winemakers lots of options for shaping the final product. There’s also the matter of how heavily charred the barrels are. And whether they are from French or American forests. French oak trees grow slowly which results in tighter grain patterns (this allows for less oxygen permeation) while American oak trees grow faster and are more porous.

So knowing all this, what should you do? At the very least (and for the love of God and your grandchildren), try at least a couple quality examples of each style above before you decide you don’t like chardonnay. You don’t have to taste them all today, but you do have to taste them! Once you know which style(s) you most enjoy, start focusing on and exploring world regions or local producers that generally make that style. (Otherwise, you’re going to be stuck drinking cabernet franc every summer and that’s not good for anybody.) It should also be noted that all styles of still chardonnay are technically dry. Some might think a chardonnay sweet because it seems light or fruity (it’s easy to confuse fruit flavors with sweet sensations), but you’re not going to find Chardonnay wine with any clear signs of sugar left over from the alcoholic fermentation process.

Our own Chardonnay Monet comes from a cooler vineyard and was made using partial malolactic fermentation and partial sur lie maturation in neutral French oak barrels before bottling. We like the other approaches, too, but we wanted to produce the most classic style of chardonnay to pair with the equally classic art by Monet featured on the label.

As you experiment, you’ll start to notice clues to what you might be about to taste. Terms referring to climate, winemaking (and ageing) vessels used, other winemaking choices like malolactic fermentation and sur lie , as well as references to descriptors such as lemon, apple, mineral, lean (all most likely connected to Chablis-style wines), baguette (from sur lie ageing ), butter (from malolactic fermentation) and general richness (from new oak). Learn these indicators and you’ll be picking the style of chardonnay that most appeals to you every time.

Chardonnay FAQ:

Who drinks chardonnay? I’m glad you asked. The answer is just about everyone. If you don’t include yourself, then maybe it’s just because you’ve not found the right style to fit your palate. Drinking only red wine is like eating only red meat. Or only blue cheese. Or green vegetables.

What does chardonnay taste like? Another fine question. You’re doing great. Various flavors might include lemon, yellow apple, baked apple, pear, pineapple, saline, minerality, butter, toast, vanilla, and more.

Where is chardonnay made? Almost all countries that make wine make chardonnay. Historically, Burgundy in France is its ancestral home. California makes some famous chardonnay. Australia and Chile produce notable amounts of chardonnay as well. Do not overlook chardonnay from Washington State and Oregon, of course.

How many calories are in chardonnay? It depends on the amount of alcohol and size of the pour. So do yourself a favor, skip the rice pilaf or stale dinner roll and enjoy your glass of wine.

How should I serve chardonnay? Chilled and in a coffee mug to keep it that way. Or in a fancy wine glass if you prefer. A couple hours in the fridge from room temperature should do the trick. If you store it in the fridge long term, then take it out for 20 minutes before serving. Lighter wines are generally best served cooler than bigger wines so an all stainless steel chardonnay should be served a few degrees cooler than a rich, buttery version.

How long will chardonnay taste good after opened? If you have a vacuum pump system (and you should unless you finish every bottle you open within a few hours) then you can close and keep a bottle of chardonnay in your fridge for 72 hours at the most. Each hour that passes depletes a bit of the character of the wine till it’s just not recognizable as the wine you originally opened.

How is “chardonnay” pronounced? It depends on how many glasses you’ve had. Anything remotely like “shar-doe-NAY” is sufficient. Let’s not take wine (or ourselves) too terribly seriously.

We believe there's a chardonnay for every wine drinker because we've tried so many and enjoyed many a good wine surprise along the way. Have a wine surprise to share? Email us!

Variety Spotlight: Raise the Roof for Riesling

Wed, 02 May 2018 18:46:00 GMT

We deal in wine surprises around here and of course we generally mean the good ones. Very occasionally, however, we come across a not-so-positive surprise out there in the world of wine. I’m always surprised when I hear an American wine drinker disparage riesling, for example. A noble variety renown throughout the world and the history of wine, the riesling grape can produce absolutely remarkable wine. It’s high in acid (i.e., it’s tart) so riesling is one of the few white wines that ages well and is able to be made into a number of different styles, too (from bone-dry to dessert-sweet). Rieslings are also tremendous wines for pairing with food because the primary purpose of any drink served with a meal is to cleanse the palate and riesling can cut through just about any menu you can imagine. Drink it with a thick steak if you want. Seriously. At any rate, if you’re under the impression that riesling is just cloying and gross then let’s set the record straight once and for all. Right here. Right now.

I can’t erase your memory of that giant jug of Rhine Wine you shared with friends in college (it’s like liquified SweeTarts). Or your grandma’s Blue Nun , for that matter. But I can introduce you to some incredible riesling from its traditional home in Germany. Our first stop will be the quaint village of Johannisberg in the Rheingau region. From there we’ll move on to the Mosel wine district. (Taking note that both areas are named for the rivers that make viticulture there possible.) Please set aside your prejudices and be sure to button up your lederhosen because there’s incredible wine ahead.

Johannisberg is known for its wine as well as its castle (I know, so predictable) but it’s also just a normal, functioning small town. What struck me as surprising as I walked around for a few hours is that wine is an embedded, intertwined aspect of the culture and community. In fact, nearly every otherwise unused square foot of dirt is dedicated to vines. I discovered vineyards in backyards, in churchyards, just beyond school boundaries, and in plots large and small adjacent to cemeteries. Life and wine (meaning the full life-cycle from dirt to dinner) are up-close and intermingled in Johannisberg.

Wine producing regions in the new world (e.g., the USA, Australia, and New Zealand) cover vast areas with plenty of space between vineyards, wineries, and dwellings (which are miles, rather than meters, apart). If you’re going to visit those wine regions, you’ll need a car. But in Johannisberg, you can cover quite a bit of ground on foot. As a partial result of such proximity and familiarity, wine isn’t just a bottle on a shelf in the Rheingau. Wine is an integrated element of daily life for anyone and everyone to enjoy.

Visiting Johannisberg from my hub in Frankfurt was an easy journey. Traveling to the Mosel region, on the other hand, required more of a personal investment. It’s a 3-hour trip each way by train and exploring locally on foot (as I did) the miles do add up if you want to see multiple villages (as I did). After covering 22 miles on a beautiful early spring day, however, I had nothing to regret.

The immediate impression of the Mosel region is the steep hillside vineyards. Sloped, facing hillsides are common in wine growing regions around the world (on either sides of a river, frequently), but the hillside vineyards in the Mosel region are extreme. The vineyards are so steep that almost no work can be performed by machine so the upkeep of the vineyards (not to mention the actual harvest) is highly labor intensive. In addition to the incredibly steep hillsides, it also becomes immediately apparent just how revered riesling is in the area. In fact, many wineries are actually called “Riesling Winery” (i.e., Riesling Weingut). If any other varietals are made into wine, those are secondary, at best. Along with the fetching beauty of the river valley, I also discovered warm and friendly hospitality awaiting me at two exceptional producers– Markus Molitor and Dr. Loosen .

Winemaker Markus Molitor comes from eight generations of wine business experience. His father was also a winemaker and Molitor took over his father’s work in 1984 (the current winery facility actually dates to 1890 but was not part of the family business previously). As a 20-year-old, Molitor already had a vision to recapture the “golden era of Mosel wine” dating prior to WWI. I took note of this because I would actually call Molitor’s wines very modern–clean, powerful, and extremely focused. He is also known for the variety of wine he produces so, fittingly, there were 43 different options to choose from on the day I visited. Twice as many wines are made here each vintage. Germans are nothing if not methodical and exhaustive.

Though I came for the riesling, I felt compelled to taste a couple of pinot noir wines as well (pinot noir comprises only 3% of the wine produced by Molitor). Given the powerful nature of Molitor’s riesling wines, it was recommended that I begin with pinot noir (which turned out to be solid advice). Both were from the 2014 vintage but from different vineyards (in this case Mandelgraben and Klostergarten, respectively). The first was restrained, elegant, and delightfully full of red berry flavors. The second had a bit of earthy quality with more new oak used in the maturation process. It was also pleasantly unobtrusive and included just a dusting of tannins on the gums. These were truly delicious wines so let’s hope to see more pinot noir from the Mosel region in the future (the Nazi regime banned non-German varieties in the area and the regulations were not overturned until 1988 so there’s still precious little pinot noir planted in the region).

I went on to taste 11 different Reasonsrieslings at Markus Molitor. The simplest, a 2015 Wehlener Klosterberg Kabinett (wines are generally named in order of village, vineyard, then ripeness level of grapes at harvest–the main point is to taste, appreciate, and not get caught up in the intimidating German nomenclature) provided a big, beautiful wallop to the senses. From wine to wine, the dry, off-dry, and sweet rieslings showed various flavors of:

Green apple
Peach
Yellow Apple
Nectarine
Dried Apricot
Tropical fruit

The oldest was a Graacher Domprobst Auslese from 2003 and the youngest were from the 2016 vintage (including the 98-point 2016 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese). Alcohol by volume ranged from 11.5% for the dry rieslings to 7.5% for the sweet wines. The 2006 Zeltinger Schlossberg Trockenbeerenauslese provided a special experience (at $140 for a half-bottle, I suppose it should) but my favorite was the 2016 Erdener Treppchen Spatlese with notes of peach, yellow apple, and wonderfully prominent acid. At only $24 a bottle, this wine is a value.

Molitor uses only native yeasts in winemaking, ages dry wines in large non-toasted barrels (the micro-oxygenation permitted by the vessel contributes a slightly creamy body to the wine) with all off-dry and sweet wines aging in stainless steel only (the sugar provides the improved mouthfeel that a dry riesling would not exhibit if aged only in stainless steel). Without a doubt, Markus Molitor wines are standout examples of the best of the Mosel region.

A long, beautiful walk along the Mosel river helped prepare me for my next tasting experience, this time at Weingut Dr. Loosen. German wine classifications are notoriously difficult to understand and recall (even by Germans, I was assured) and Dr. Loosen follows somewhat different production and labeling guidelines as part of the “VDP” (i.e., Verband deutscher Prädikatsweingüter), an invitation-only group of 200 elite German winemakers. I was joined in the previously-arranged private group tasting by a fine wine merchant from London, her German wine-industry colleague, and three congenial Italian gentlemen who were obviously riesling-fanatics.

There was much discussion of the region’s blue slate (prominent on one side of the river), red slate (on the other side of the river), and red volcanic soils (found only in rare cases such as the famously steep Ürziger Würzgarten vineyard). The type of soil impacts the character of each wine, but it’s perhaps most important to note that the slate helps ripen the grapes in this very cool region by reflecting the sun back up to the vines and by holding (and then releasing) the heat of the day’s sun through the cool evenings. The warmth of the river itself as well as the very steep vineyard slopes facing south also make it possible to grow grapes in this otherwise unlikely vineyard region.

The 8 wines on pour at Dr. Loosen varied from dry expressions of riesling at 12.5% alcohol to very sweet rieslings at 7.5% alcohol. Overall, various citrus flavors stood out in the midst of the many food-friendly wines in the line up. The final wine, a 2015 Beerenauslese, was poured from a half of a half of a bottle (i.e., 187.5ml) made exclusively for Dr. Loosen by an Italian bottle manufacturer. A true rarity in every way. As beautiful as these wines are, it was the story of how (even rarer) Ice Wine is made at Dr. Loosen which perhaps provided the most poignant moment of the day for me.

As mentioned, area vineyards are ridiculously steep around here and therefore highly difficult to pick. Each year about 50 vineyard workers arrive from Poland, Hungary, and Romania for the month of October. The late-harvested grapes for Ice Wine are not available every year (weather conditions have to be just right) so pickers return to their home countries before it turns cold enough to know if the late harvest will be possible (temperatures must descend to 20 degrees Fahrenheit early enough that the remaining grapes have not completely rotted on the vines). With no labor available so late in the season, what’s a winery to do? Well, in the lucky years when all weather factors align, the 60 regular employees of Dr. Loosen rise to the occasion. Everyone is alerted by text in the middle of the night to arrive at the vineyard by 4AM. This includes sales administrators, marketers, the HR department, the finance team, and anyone (and everyone) else who is employed at Dr. Loosen. Colleagues endure the freezing, nearly-perpendicular, slippery work on top of sharp rocks for 5 hours together before the sun rises and ruins everything. Then co-workers gather for a simple breakfast (with riesling, of course) before going home for the day. As corporate team building exercises go, a day at the ropes course pales in comparison. Lang lebe riesling!

We'll drink riesling with anything. Or nothing at all. And we love a good wine surprise. Have one to share? Email us!

Wine Off the Beaten Path: Japan's Koshu Valley

Sat, 17 Mar 2018 19:00:00 GMT

I have a theory about Japanese culture. Like most of my opinions and perspectives, it’s only partially informed. I’ve spent some time in Japan on a handful of trips in the last few years, but I’m no scholar. In fact, my theory started developing before I had ever even visited the Land of the Rising Sun . It began when an enthusiastic shop keeper at a high-end liquor store in Manhattan convinced me to purchase the Japanese malt whisky Nikka . Being a fan of proper Scotch, I was skeptical. Once I tasted it, however, I started to wonder if there’s anything the Japanese can’t do. And do well. (In other words, it was NICE.) The deeply ingrained societal values of propriety (doing things the “right” way), patience (proceeding slowly and carefully in the pursuit of excellence), and the quest for perfection (or at least constant improvement) add up to so many remarkable aspects of Japanese culture. So on a couple of recent trips to Japan, I put my theory to the test by exploring Japanese wine. Not Sake (which is actually brewed like beer but colloquially referred to as “rice wine” in Western cultures), but actual glorious fermented and aged grape juice.

Yamanashi prefecture is the traditional home of Japanese wine. With 80 wineries in operation, over 40% of all Japanese wine today is produced in this district. To warm up for my first visit there, I began at Y Wine , a restaurant in Tokyo featuring an extensive selection of Japanese wines. The proprietor is the highly-regarded Japanese sommelier Tasaki Shinya , and the food features ingredients from the Yamanashi region. The dining experience was a good reminder that in addition to propriety, patience, and perfection, the Japanese are also well versed in presentation. Each dish was elegant and beautiful to behold. Not to mention delicious.

The leading star of the Japanese wine show is the koshu grape. Similar in color to pinot gris on the vine, it has its roots in the Caucasus region (around modern-day Georgia) and traveled to the far east via Silk Road trade perhaps a thousand years ago. The grape mutated naturally with local varietals and was recently determined to be about 72% vitis vinifera (i.e., the European species enjoyed in the form of chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, pinot noir, and so on). Y Wine features an extensive list of Koshu wines. A sparkling Koshu from Manns Wine , for example, presented fine bubbles, notes of pear, and was an excellent companion to the appetizer course.

There were many wines on offer at my first Japanese wine dinner so I simply allowed my host to make the selections. A still Koshu from Katsunuma Winery was reminiscent of tree fruit (apple and pear) as well as white flowers with a pleasant mouthfeel from the “sur lie” production (in which the wine is aged along with expired yeast cells from the fermentation process, thus adding body to the final product). Another Koshu from Ikeda Winery had plentiful acid (i.e., tartness) similar to a dry riesling. I’m a big fan of dry, high-acid, low-alcohol wines and these Koshus really delivered.

Our dining party ended the night with a Japanese take on merlot and another red wine called Muscat Bailey A (a name so awkward that only a scientist could have devised it). The merlot was light in color and body (surprisingly, it reminded me of pinot noir in some respects) and the Muscat Bailey A was a bit like a gamay with a gorgeous bright ruby color and pronounced aromas and flavors of red fruit (raspberry, cranberry, and strawberry). It was not especially subtle but was a pleasant-enough way to cap the evening.

The next morning, I boarded an early train from Tokyo’s famous Shinjuku station for the town of Katsunuma (formerly known as Koshu) and enjoyed an easy 90-minute trip ascending toward the sleepy, mountainous region of Yamanashi. It was a clear day in early March with views of Mt. Fuji in the distance. The town sits at about 600 feet elevation and is surrounded by mountains on all sides (the train passed through several tunnels built into the mountains along the way). While vineyards nearly cover the valley floor, there are also elevated vineyards around the edge of Katsunuma. It’s a cool climate region where grapes can be harvested anytime from early September to late October depending on the vineyard site, grape varietal, and specific weather conditions that year. On a subsequent mid-September visit, I was pleased to see ripe grapes hanging in anticipation of harvest.

After walking through the village intrigued by the unique trellising method of the many vineyards (a variation of the “pergola” method used in parts of Italy and elsewhere, it’s intended to create maximum airflow for the vines during humid summers), my first stop was Château Mercian where I tasted through a quartet of koshu wines in a uniquely Japanese setting. Some of these had grassy characteristics similar to sauvignon blanc and all were highly acidic (a beneficial palate cleansing aspect of lighter bodied wines). Château Mercian also houses a museum of local wine making dating back to 1873. I couldn’t read the Japanese descriptions, but the historic artifacts were interesting to view.

The centerpiece of my excursion into Japanese wine territory was a scheduled visit with the talented and accomplished head winemaker at Grace Wine , Ayana Misawa. With wine studies in Bordeaux and production experience in Alsace, Burgundy, New Zealand, and elsewhere, Ayana has an impressive breadth of knowledge and perspective. She hosted me for an extensive tasting through a selection of the winery’s best offerings. We explored five distinct koshu wines together: a regional wine made from the grapes of various vineyards of clay soil on the valley floor; a village wine made of grapes from the better unnamed vineyards around town; a single-vineyard wine from an elevated (1,600 feet) vineyard of granite soil; a barrel-fermented single-vineyard wine; and the flagship single-vineyard koshu from a vineyard at 2,300 feet elevation with slate soil. The wines showed koshu’s high acid, low alcohol (around 11.5%) nature along with aromas and flavors of white peach, white flowers, and citrus. Each wine was somehow both more expressive and more delicate than the one before it. Tasting through them all in one setting with the winemaker was a delight and a privilege.

Ayana also shared a cabernet franc and a Bordeaux blend (55% cabernet sauvignon) which were both technically sound if not quite typical. They showed a little of the herbaceous and green vegetal characteristics one might expect from these varietals grown in a cool climate. We ended with the previously mentioned local favorite Muscat Bailey A, a simple fruity wine benefiting from blending with cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

After such incredible tastings of koshu at the likes of Grace Wine and Haramo Winery (pictured above), I was ready to pronounce my theory of Japanese excellence in all endeavors without dispute. There was just one more stop on my Katsunuma adventure, the “wine cave” at the tourist magnet Budo no Oka (“Grape Hill Center”). For about 10 US dollars, visitors can try a selection of dozens of local wines. With a clear emphasis on quantity, I was concerned that the quality of the wines on pour would be disappointing, but I wanted to try a few more red wines from the region to see how they compared in caliber to all the excellent koshu I'd enjoyed. In retrospect, I probably should have walked straight to the train station. These red wines blew a barrel-sized hole in my theory of Japanese quality. Muscat Bailey A, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, and Kai Noir (a locally cultivated hybrid grape) were overly fruity, insipid, and sometimes reminiscent of the “foxy” quality that wines made from native grape varietals in America can display. In fact, I discovered that there are plenty of American hybrids (e.g., Delaware and Black Queen) used at even the best wineries in Katsunuma. While the local customer base may appreciate these wines, they’re unlikely to contribute to any worldwide acceptance of Japanese wine.

So what to do with my theory? In spite of somedisappointing red wines, I’m not quite ready to let go of my assessment of Japanese culture. It is a more nuanced view as a result of my excursion into Japanese wine, however. Gardens, automobiles, education, electronics, and culinary expression notwithstanding, I suppose it’s unrealistic to expect the Japanese (or any other population) to be able to do everything well. But with extreme attention to detail woven through so many aspects of Japanese culture, it’s not surprising to find world class white wines there. I also suspect that red wine production of cool-climate international varietals (pinot noir, anyone?) will improve over time in Japan and eventually be ready to play on a world stage as well. I’ll be anticipating that.

You might find us drinking beer with sushi but we do love a good wine surprise. Have one to share? Email us!

Wine Off the Beaten Path: Heard About Chinese Wine? (Good Luck Finding Some.)

Sat, 18 Nov 2017 21:47:00 GMT

Continuing in the theme of surprising places to find wine, let’s take a look at China. The country is reportedly the seventh largest wine producer in the world (according to the International Organization for Vine and Wine ). Which means more wine is made in China than in Chile or Germany or Portugal or New Zealand. Being naturally curious (and a little skeptical), I decided to do my own Chinese wine research while visiting Shenzhen, Guangzhou, and Shanghai (all massive cities of 12 million or more residents). I can't quite wrap my head around 11.4 million hectoliters (the estimated output of Chinese wineries in 2017), but I know that's a LOT of wine! With that much local wine flowing through the country, I expected that finding and trying some would be easily accomplished. To the contrary, I soon discovered that Chinese-made wine is not well-known, even within China.

While preparing for my trip, I emailed ahead to ask my hotel about which Chinese wines I'd find served in the onsite restaurants. In response, the staff suggested I try Tsingtao (a famous beer) or Baijiu (a distilled rice spirit). After a few email exchanges, it became clear that Chinese wine was not top of mind for my hosts and that finding some might prove challenging. (I also later learned to ask specifically for "grape wine" to help address any potential confusion.) After I arrived in the country, I visited several international hotel bars and restaurants in the neighborhood and discovered only two Chinese wines (compared to hundreds from other countries) which were only available to purchase by the bottle. I also found NO Chinese wines in the fancy wine specialty shops in the central business district (just a lot of blank stares when I asked for some). Wine (especially from France—prestigious, Australia—reasonably close, and Chile—affordable due to very friendly trade terms) was readily available and sought after by local consumers, but Chinese wine was hard to find.

I was in an upscale international hotel district so maybe there just isn't a big customer base for Chinese wines around my hotel? On the other hand, there were also many Chinese business people staying as guests in the same hotels as the international travelers so I'm not sure about this explanation (though perhaps Chinese business travelers tend to drink wine from better-known wine-producing countries?). Another theory (from an associate of mine who lives in Hong Kong) is that even though China produces a tremendous amount of wine, most of it is consumed closer to the areas where it is made (which would be quite far from a city like Shenzhen). But 11.4 million hectoliters made annually and I can find hardly ANY in a modern, tier-1 city like Guangzhou? Let's consider it this way, the US produces more than twice as much wine as China and has a population of about a quarter of China. So per capita wine production in China is less than an eighth of what it is in the US. That could help explain the lack of readily available Chinese wine I experienced. Additionally, I’m told that online retail is the primary sales channel for Chinese wines and without Chinese reading skills, I had no access to explore this marketplace.

While pondering all this, I continued my quest at a large downtown grocery store where I finally came across a modest selection of Chinese wines (within a significant international wine department). Giddy with a sense of accomplishment, I purchased three bottles—all reds. When it comes to color, Chinese wine drinkers choose reds over whites the vast majority of the time even though the cuisine is frequently better suited to a white wine of some sort. Perhaps this is because red is such an auspicious color in the Chinese psyche (symbolizing good fortune and happiness). Chinese consumers are also attracted to European luxury brands and so gravitate toward wines from Bordeaux (arguably the most powerful “brand” in all of wine) where the majority of the output is red. I've also heard it said by locals that the popularity of French red wines in China is partially due to the way France's reds were so heavily marketed to early adopters of wine here.

Two of the three wines I purchased proved perfectly drinkable (though perhaps overpriced for their quality). Interestingly, the bottlings were not dated (AKA non-vintage) which means the wine is blended from multiple years of harvests to ensure consistent quality when individual growing seasons may be inconsistent. This is likely a sign of the early developmental stage of the industry (or perhaps the level of Chinese wines to be found in supermarkets). On the most important topic of quality, one of the three wines I purchased in bottle was impacted by the Brettanomyces yeast which many wine drinkers would prefer not to meet in a dark alley (though some enjoy it in limited amounts). The other two wines I tasted were perfectly respectable. At around $25 a bottle, however, I expected a bit more. A Chinese associate of mine told me these wines cost far less just a few years ago. Apparently, the prices increased dramatically as the brands became better known. The Changyu and Great Wall brands received significant attention when featured on menus for Barack Obama's visit to China in 2009, for example. My Chinese friend's own view was that international wines are now the better value. Which seems a reasonable conclusion based on my limited buying and tasting experience.

Eventually, I was able to find two vintage-dated Chinese wines available by the glass at a hotel restaurant. This was a much easier way to experiment and provided my first opportunity to try a white wine from China. Both of these wines from the Kanaan Winery were grown and made in the far north-central region of Ningxia, where quality wine production is concentrated in China.

What is my conclusion about the state of Chinese wine? Quality will almost certainly improve over time. And to be competitive, it will need to (as will prices need to drop). Current production volume may seem high in comparison to more traditional and historical wine producers like Portugal, but it has actually decreased slightly over the last few years and is quite modest on a per capita basis. So if you're concerned about Chinese wine suddenly flooding the world market, I think that's an unnecessary fear. A significant investment over a noteworthy period of time will be required before Chinese wineries are ready to have an impact on the world wine market in consistent quality or quantity. We’ll hope for an increase in white wine production along with a move toward artisanal winemaking alongside the factory approach most obvious currently. In the end, like so many aspects of China’s place in the world, we’ll have to wait and see where this goes. Stay tuned.

We drink Vinho Verde with lo mein. And we love a good wine surprise. Have one to share? Email us!

Wine Off the Beaten Path: India's Nashik

Sat, 04 Nov 2017 16:09:00 GMT

Our first ever Wine Surprise blog is all about wine from India. Surprise! Few wine drinkers I’ve met realize that India hosts a growing wine industry that has attracted international attention and is producing noteworthy wines. On recent trips to Mumbai, I tasted an array of regional selections. I also visited one of the primary vineyard areas near the city of Nashik (about 3 hours from Mumbai by car) where there are nearly 40 commercial wineries operating in an agricultural area which also supplies much of the produce for the massive population of Mumbai.

A clear take away from up-close observation is that making wine in India is an inherently challenging endeavor. There is very little tradition of winemaking, for example, so every vineyard (and vintage) is a bit of an experiment. This makes the already hard work of winemaking even more exciting and risky. The Indian populace is still developing a taste for wine (you’ll find far more local restaurant patrons enjoying Kingfisher beer), so winemakers don’t receive the same social rewards and recognition as in other more established wine regions. Most difficult of all, of course, is the climate. While tradition can develop and wine appreciation can grow, weather patterns in India are not likely to improve for the purposes of growing quality wine grapes.

Historically, wine regions between 30 and 50 degrees latitude (both south and north of the equator) are recognized as most fit to produce fine wines. This includes the so-called “old world” wine regions of Europe (e.g., France, Italy, Spain, and Germany) along with the most highly regarded wine regions of the “new world” (e.g., USA, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, and Argentina). The wine regions of India are far outside this zone and great care (along with some unorthodox viticultural practices) are required to offset the extreme conditions of heat and precipitation. Left to their own devices, for example, grape vines in this climate will produce two harvests a year. Which may seem like a boon (twice as many grapes=twice as much wine!) but in fact drains the vines of resources to produce high quality fruit and also shortens their overall lifespan.

To address this innate problem, grape growers have adopted specialized farming practices. Grapes are harvested in February and March, then vines are pruned in April. In a typical wine region, vines enter a dormancy period after harvest for the winter ahead. In India, however, the vines produce new shoots (from which new buds would normally grow) almost immediately. To avoid a second crop, growers pull off these new shoots in May heading into the monsoon season (June-September). In September, the vines are pruned again in preparation for the growing season. While the “winter” growing months are relatively cool (by tropical standards), much care must still be taken to protect the vines and fruit from the full effects of the heat and light. In addition to viticultural practices like vine training, elevation and the surrounding rivers and lakes help moderate temperatures in the vineyard.

These growing conditions also present a significant dilemma vis-à-vis regional cuisine. Warm climate grapes from southern Italy, southern France, Spain, and Greece would likely grow best in the Indian heat. These grapes typically contribute to full-bodied tannic wines which would not pair well with most Indian food, however. For example, as a matter of religious conviction, hundreds of millions of Hindus in India do not eat beef. In fact, it is currently illegal for a restaurant to serve beef in India. Even McDonald’s thrives on selling veggie burgers (as well as food from other meat sources such as chicken and fish) in India. There is also a very large population of vegetarians. Finally, as even a casual Indian food diner is aware, the food is often quite spicy (i.e., picante). Put all this together, and it’s clear that lighter bodied wines generally pair better with Indian food. Warm climate grapes, however, produce wines with pronounced body.

The cool climate grape varieties that might pair best with regional cuisine are quite difficult to grow in such a hot climate as India. I tasted a couple of local riesling wines that lacked the crisp acidity normally associated with wines from cooler climates (such as Germany). I also found that red varieties like cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, which require sun and heat to mature, can seem a bit light (even thin at times). This is likely because the grapes were picked before sugar levels were too highly elevated (which would contribute to a high alcohol wine not suitable for pairing with spicy food–or even for drinking at all) and as a result, the fruit doesn’t always develop full flavor potential. This lack of “typicity” in some of the red wines often lends itself to better pairing with regional cuisine, however. Regardless, in a country where sweltering tropical and subtropical climates predominate, full-bodied red wines are unlikely to garner broad appreciation no matter the food style.

In spite of all these challenges, great things are happening with Indian wine. Three of the larger producers are Grover Zampa , Fratelli , and Sula (all readily available in restaurants in Mumbai). While each of these has been directly influenced by European and American wine-making traditions (French, Italian, and Californian, respectively), the wines are uniquely Indian. While exploring a few wines lists, I especially enjoyed a sparkling chenin blanc from Grover Zampa, the "Sette" Super Tuscan from Fratelli (sangiovese with cabernet sauvignon), and a merlot/malbec blend from Sula. These are all wines I’d be happy to drink again in any country.

Another well-known producer in India is the international sparkling wine powerhouse Chandon . In fact, the sparklers I enjoyed in India were the most consistently delightful overall and if there’s a cuisine more suited for pairing with sparkling wine than Inidan, I’ve not met it. The Champagne region in France is a famously cool area for sparkling wine production so India seems an unlikely location for producing such wines. Somehow, Indian producers have identified vineyard sites cool enough for these grapes to prosper. Growers also pick these grapes quite early before too much sugar has developed and the natural acidity has been lost.

The presence of Chandon isn't the only sign of outside influence and interest in Indian wine. Legendary French wine consultant Michel Rolland has been involved with Indian producer Grover Zampa since the 1990s. Grover Zampa’s winery in Nashik has twelve acres planted to viognier, grenache, shiraz, and tempranillo and contracts with local growers each year for additional fruit. (The winery also operates in the Nandi Hills outside of Bangalore where it grows additional varieties like cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc, and chardonnay). The oaky 2015 “La Réserve” (a blend of tempranillo and shiraz) reminded me a of a Rioja and the excellent 2015 “VA” (a blend of shiraz, cab, and viognier named after the Indian tennis player Vijay Amritraj) presented ample fruit, balance, and restrained oak influence. Grover Zampa currently exports to 22 countries.

Valloné VIneyards is a boutique grower and producer just down the road from Grover Zampa. Hospitable and knowledgeable, head winemaker Sanket Gawand trained in Italy and France before settling in to make wine in his home country. His 2014 syrah/merlot blend was perhaps the most structured of any red wine I’ve tasted from India and his 2014 “Anokhe” (meaning “unique” or “different” in Hindi) was delightfully complex and is made only from exceptional vintages. Valloné’s sweet 2016 “Vin de Passerillage” from chenin blanc also caught my attention with its explosion of apricot and honey on the palate. These grapes are hung and dried inside a straw hut for a month after harvesting until each berry yields only a drop of liquid for wine production, making each taste precious. With an annual total of all varieties produced at less than 6,000 cases, you’ll have to make a trip to India to enjoy these Valloné wines as none are exported.

Though I’m not sure what to expect from India’s wine future, I do admire the extreme passion for and commitment to wine that is necessary to confront the many challenges of such an environment. It’s worth noting that India is currently the fastest growing major economy in the world, so I do think it likely that Indians will continue to develop an interest in wine as fine wine production and developed economies tend to go hand in hand. While further significant experimentation and problem solving will be necessary to produce ultra premium wine in India, we've seen other "new world" wine regions redefine what was once considered possible and I do look forward to following the progress of this upstart wine region.

We don’t make wine in India, but we do love a good wine surprise. Have one to share? Email us!